Ball joint deletes...

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BlueRubicon

Member
Installed American Iron Off Road ball joint delete kit. Reid Racing Steel steer knuckles, Krawler triple rate front springs and EVO D44 front truss kitIMG_5358.jpg
 

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B

BlueRubicon

Member
JP223/3USA said:
What was the deciding factor for ball joint deletes vs others?


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Because I was tired of replacing ball joints out on the trail. Last year Synergy didn’t have their adjustable ball joints ready. I got wind of the delete set up and started researching and talking with the guy who makes them. The deletes are rebuildable with out having to press anything in or out of axle C. I like that. Nothing to grease, I like that too. Many of the krawler buggies using them with their 1 tons. I figure its worth a shot to try them.
Also My friend in Utah has them on his JK with 1 ton axles and 42" tires. He beats bejezus out of it. His deletes have held up great. He was also tired of replacing ball joints. The customer service too, I might add is outstanding. I can call the person who designed and makes them anytime. The deletes are also the same price and less than the ball joints. So what is to loose?
 

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B

BlueRubicon

Member
Here is a closer view of the deletes. I pressed out the bj's and pressed the cups into the C knuckles before removing axle to do truss.
Like I mentioned, the idea is to not have to remove cups again. Meaning no pressing in and out of C. Because as we know...whenever you press something, you are removing 'meat' from the hole. The bearings are teflon, and do not need to be pressed to replace.
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Here is the top after Steer knuckles installed
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Here is the bottom
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B

BlueRubicon

Member
Finished up this morning and road tested. Much 'tighter' feel. Thought I would share with you final product pics.
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JTCO

JTCO

Meme King
I'm assuming you're still on the factory axle?

Also, what parts inside allow for wear? Is it not a ball/socket style joint? Something has to give over time, so I'm trying to understand how these things work to do that.
 

B

BlueRubicon

Member
JTCO said:
I'm assuming you're still on the factory axle?

Also, what parts inside allow for wear? Is it not a ball/socket style joint? Something has to give over time, so I'm trying to understand how these things work to do that.
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Yes...on factory D44. There is the 'cup', which is pressed into the upper and lower C knuckles. Inside is a teflon bearing. The teflon bearing is held in by a beefy c-clip. If and when it fails, you remove c-clip and remove teflon bearing and install new one. Similiar to a king pin set up.
Here is a close up of the lower.
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J

Jeeeep

Member
interesting, looks like a much easier rebuild over dynatrac prosteers.
no rubber boots? what about greasing?
 

B

BlueRubicon

Member
Jeeeep said:
interesting, looks like a much easier rebuild over dynatrac prosteers.
no rubber boots? what about greasing?
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No and no. I would say look up the company and check them out. You can ask the designer all the questions you want. I am saying this because I am not the ambassador or sponsored by the co. and I don’t want to mislead because I am not an expert.
 

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BalljointDeleteSystems

New member
Jeeeep said:
interesting, looks like a much easier rebuild over dynatrac prosteers.
no rubber boots? what about greasing?
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I created an account to answer any questions.
The rebuild process is much easier than the Dynatrac joints. The systems have a viton O ring seal and a machined shim on the top of each assembly which keeps debris from wearing the bearing prematurely. The bottom is not sealed to allow any moisture to exit the assembly which is a good thing. F1 fit PFTE (Teflon) self lubricated bearings are used to keep operation smooth and extend the life of the bearing. All systems are backed by a 2 year/30,000 mile warranty which will replace any worn out spherical bearings or broken/damaged hardware during use. No one else in the industry will put a warranty on a driveline component that I’m aware of.
 

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BalljointDeleteSystems

New member
BalljointDeleteSystems said:
I created an account to answer any questions.
The rebuild process is much easier than the Dynatrac joints. The systems have a viton O ring seal and a machined shim on the top of each assembly which keeps debris from wearing the bearing prematurely. The bottom is not sealed to allow any moisture to exit the assembly which is a good thing. F1 fit PFTE (Teflon) self lubricated bearings are used to keep operation smooth and extend the life of the bearing. All systems are backed by a 2 year/30,000 mile warranty which will replace any worn out spherical bearings or broken/damaged hardware during use. No one else in the industry will put a warranty on a driveline component that I’m aware of.
Click to expand...
 

JP223/3USA

JP223/3USA

Member
BalljointDeleteSystems said:
I created an account to answer any questions.
The rebuild process is much easier than the Dynatrac joints. The systems have a viton O ring seal and a machined shim on the top of each assembly which keeps debris from wearing the bearing prematurely. The bottom is not sealed to allow any moisture to exit the assembly which is a good thing. F1 fit PFTE (Teflon) self lubricated bearings are used to keep operation smooth and extend the life of the bearing. All systems are backed by a 2 year/30,000 mile warranty which will replace any worn out spherical bearings or broken/damaged hardware during use. No one else in the industry will put a warranty on a driveline component that I’m aware of.
Click to expand...

What material is the stem?


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jddk

jddk

Member
Please post up reports every 5k on these if you don’t mind. Curious as to wear/wobble over time. Thanks!
 

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BlueRubicon

Member

right after this video, my buddy filming, practically stepped on black timber rattler.

IMG_5488.jpg
Needless to say...it wasn't happy and my buddy bout shit himself! I have video but can't post
 

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