Dana 186 Chromoly Shaft Install

scoobycarolanNC

scoobycarolanNC

Member
I ordered a set of Dana Spicer front chromoly shafts I’m going to install next weekend. Ive watched Eddies old video off Rubicat & some others. I’m NOT deleting the FAD. Here’s some questions:

I’m assuming everything is dry in the axle.

Should I lithium grease where the inner & outer side of the FAD shaft meet or leave it dry?

Should I grease the FAD collar?

What bolts should or shouldn’t I anti-seize on the ends?

Does the FAD machine need to be RTVed or a gasket or something back into the axle once it’s off?

Any other tips or tricks for front axle shaft driveway replacement?
 

B

BlueRubicon

Member
scoobycarolanNC said:
I ordered a set of Dana Spicer front chromoly shafts I’m going to install next weekend. Ive watched Eddies old video off Rubicat & some others. I’m NOT deleting the FAD. Here’s some questions:

I’m assuming everything is dry in the axle.

Should I lithium grease where the inner & outer side of the FAD shaft meet or leave it dry?

Should I grease the FAD collar?

What bolts should or shouldn’t I anti-seize on the ends?

Does the FAD machine need to be RTVed or a gasket or something back into the axle once it’s off?

Any other tips or tricks for front axle shaft driveway replacement?
Click to expand...

1) No, when you remove FAD to remove collar and axles you WILL get some oil running out, but not much.
2) I did used a little grease when I installed RCV's
3) I did not. No grease on existing.
4) I anti seized the three long bolts for hub bearing
5) No. Has thin gasket already. Mine in perfect shape. Just cleaned.
6) be patient and methodical. Follow any directions thoroughly.
 

scoobycarolanNC

scoobycarolanNC

Member
BlueRubicon said:
1) No, when you remove FAD to remove collar and axles you WILL get some oil running out, but not much.
2) I did used a little grease when I installed RCV's
3) I did not. No grease on existing.
4) I anti seized the three long bolts for hub bearing
5) No. Has thin gasket already. Mine in perfect shape. Just cleaned.
6) be patient and methodical. Follow any directions thoroughly.
Click to expand...

ncb said:
On my JK I drained the axle oil before removing the shafts to avoid the tubes getting oil in them.


Sent from my iPhone using JL Wrangler Jeep Forum mobile app
Click to expand...

Thanks y’all!!!
 

B

BlueRubicon

Member
IMO...for what it's worth, return the shafts. Other shit will break from hard wheeling before the axle shafts will. I am talking from 2 years of hard wheeling with the JLUR. Spend your money on spare ball joints, lots of armor, better suspension...accessories, etc. If you do not wheel HARD, your wasting money on the shafts. If wheeling hard and severe enough to break those axles, its time for a Prorock. Dana JL housing will bend before the shafts break.
I am sure someone will come on here and blast me...but I could care less. Just sharing my experience with POS JL
 

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JP223/3USA

JP223/3USA

Member
I understand that reasoning but I have always upgraded my axle shafts with no other issues. I twisted my splines on my JK and upgraded my shafts and ran that for a few years with no issues. Personally, I feel the RCV shafts make me more worried of damaging my internals. That and I don’t know if some still get a clicking noise.


Sent from my iPhone using JL Wrangler Jeep Forum mobile app
 

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B

BlueRubicon

Member
JP223/3USA said:
I understand that reasoning but I have always upgraded my axle shafts with no other issues. I twisted my splines on my JK and upgraded my shafts and ran that for a few years with no issues.


Sent from my iPhone using JL Wrangler Jeep Forum mobile app
Click to expand...

How did you twist splines...what were you doing?
As you know most folks with Wranglers hardly go off road. And of the few that do, fewer are really wheeling hard. U joint should go before you twist the splines. I hate Spicer/Dana, however I admit there axle shafts are strong. I am just tellin the guy maybe spend the money elsewhere. I beat the shit out of my JLUR on serious rocks. I replaced axles with RCV's recently because a lower bj failed and sheared the ujoint. The Danas I replaced were fine. Splines looked brand new after...again two years of HARD wheeling. And I go wheeling at very least twice every month.
 

B

BlueRubicon

Member
Guess what broke? I should not have had wheels turned that much. Was asking for breakage. Still...after 'it' broke, was able to finish trail and drive to another one before 'it' actually came apart.

 

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scoobycarolanNC

scoobycarolanNC

Member
Ouch! The reason I’m going down this road with the shafts is really only about the u-joints & the big ends. I’m not really worried about the shaft itself or I would have gotten 1 piece & deleted the FAD. My suspension is great (fox/synergy) and I’m on KM3s so now it’s time to toughen everything up & the front axle is my biggest weak spot. Especially since I have the 220 rear end with trac-lock.
 

B

BlueRubicon

Member
scoobycarolanNC said:
Ouch! The reason I’m going down this road with the shafts is really only about the u-joints & the big ends. I’m not really worried about the shaft itself or I would have gotten 1 piece & deleted the FAD. My suspension is great (fox/synergy) and I’m on KM3s so now it’s time to toughen everything up & the front axle is my biggest weak spot. Especially since I have the 220 rear end with trac-lock.
Click to expand...

What about ball joints? They are the weakest points IMHO. Ive broken two. Replacement knuckle on the way because it was damaged from last bj break.
 

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