Going to install the Rancho 2” lift kit

Camelot

New member
Probably this weekend or next.

Question to you that have done it, did you disconnect the drive shaft? The instructions says to for front springs.

But looking at the videos I seen it looks like everyone skips that step.
 

Not sure if Rancho's instructions tell you this, but when you need to take off the sway bar links use a 6mm hex key in the threaded end of the bolts. Its not apparent and took me forever to look up.
 

Camelot

New member
So much for installing this weekend. I picked up the kits from a local vendor yesterday and when I unboxed last night it’s an old rev, level B. The current rev, level is E and come with four sway bar links instead of the crappy adapters plus an updated e-brake bracket to fit the 2.0.

Needles to say I am pissed they sold me old and not current parts and it seems like a good idea to get the four new sway bar links so I will be returning this kit and order a kit from a vendor that can guarantee current stock. (Rev, level E)

Not in a hurry so waiting another week or two is no big deal but I hate the hassle.
 

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
So much for installing this weekend. I picked up the kits from a local vendor yesterday and when I unboxed last night it’s an old rev, level B. The current rev, level is E and come with four sway bar links instead of the crappy adapters plus an updated e-brake bracket to fit the 2.0.

Needles to say I am pissed they sold me old and not current parts and it seems like a good idea to get the four new sway bar links so I will be returning this kit and order a kit from a vendor that can guarantee current stock. (Rev, level E)

Not in a hurry so waiting another week or two is no big deal but I hate the hassle.

Well that sucks you didn't get the revision that you were wanting. Did they at least give you a break in price? If so, the adapters really aren't all that bad and I personally think the OE rear links that would get mounted up front are a good way to go. Also, for the amount of lift you will be installing, I personally wouldn't install the e-brake relocation bracket as it will make your e-brake feel really loose. Just some food for thought.
 

Camelot

New member
Well that sucks you didn't get the revision that you were wanting. Did they at least give you a break in price? If so, the adapters really aren't all that bad and I personally think the OE rear links that would get mounted up front are a good way to go. Also, for the amount of lift you will be installing, I personally wouldn't install the e-brake relocation bracket as it will make your e-brake feel really loose. Just some food for thought.

Tanks Eddie that’s great info.
Let me just check so I got it right.

Are you saying the rear link will fit upfront and be the correct length without the cheese brackets / adapters? If so problem solved on that part. I will just start with the rear to get the links.

I prefer a firm e-brake. I use it for steering in the snow. (X Swedish rally driver) so are you saying I can get away with not relocating the e-brake bracket? If yes then it seems I don’t have any issue from a technical standpoint anymore.

I really appreciate the info and help. Thank you very much.
 

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
Tanks Eddie that’s great info.
Let me just check so I got it right.

Are you saying the rear link will fit upfront and be the correct length without the cheese brackets / adapters? If so problem solved on that part. I will just start with the rear to get the links.

I prefer a firm e-brake. I use it for steering in the snow. (X Swedish rally driver) so are you saying I can get away with not relocating the e-brake bracket? If yes then it seems I don’t have any issue from a technical standpoint anymore.

I really appreciate the info and help. Thank you very much.

Yes. If you got the same kit that I got back in the day, just install the OE rear links up front and there is no need to use the adapters. Use the links they include with the kit in the rear and all is good.

Correct, the relocation bracket is NOT needed with this lift and using it will cause your e-brake to go all the way up and with little effect. For how you like to use yours, I would leave it off.
 

Camelot

New member
Yes. If you got the same kit that I got back in the day, just install the OE rear links up front and there is no need to use the adapters. Use the links they include with the kit in the rear and all is good.

Correct, the relocation bracket is NOT needed with this lift and using it will cause your e-brake to go all the way up and with little effect. For how you like to use yours, I would leave it off.

Thanks Eddie. Very appreciated.
 

Neohiofan

New member
Hang the shocks from the rafters of your garage and give them a coating of clear coat. They will last longer with the winter salt.
 

Camelot

New member
Installed the front lift yesterday. (Will do the rear next weekend).

One observation, and also a question, is in regards to the cable for the front diff. It seems awfully short after the 2” lift was installed. Have anyone extended their cable or do you run stock length?

Seems like it will be pulled way to hard at max flex
 

JTCO

Meme King
Installed the front lift yesterday. (Will do the rear next weekend).

One observation, and also a question, is in regards to the cable for the front diff. It seems awfully short after the 2” lift was installed. Have anyone extended their cable or do you run stock length?

Seems like it will be pulled way to hard at max flex

Cable? You mean the breather tube and wiring? You should cycle your axle at full droop to see if it actually will be a problem. With your sway bar disconnected, you should be able to simulate the same conditions in your garage that would occur on a trail.
 

Camelot

New member
Cable? You mean the breather tube and wiring? You should cycle your axle at full droop to see if it actually will be a problem. With your sway bar disconnected, you should be able to simulate the same conditions in your garage that would occur on a trail.

Breather tube is fine. It’s long enough. It’s the wire harness for the front diff that concerns me. Did not come off at what flex I could do in the garage but it seems awfully short. I might just extend it 3” to make sure it’s never an issue.
 

Camelot

New member
Thanks everyone for the advice, greatly appreciated.

Front took me about 4.5 hours and the rear 3.5 so a good 8 hours. Can probably shave a couple of hours of that for the next time now when I have done it.

Kept the e-brake bracket as stock. Seems a little tight when full flex but long enough I think.

New tires sits in my office and will go on Friday and then adjust the steering wheel and I should be done.

Ordered the ARB trunk drawer I saw on here as well, plus the installation kit. Can’t wait to get out on the road to try out the new setup this weekend.

Will try to check the accuracy of the speedo with a Lidar gun as well if I have time. At least 30,50, and 70 just for comparison.

Again, thanks to all, great help in getting this done without messing up anything expensive.
 

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Nice work! Make sure to take the time to recheck every bolt you touched in 100 or so miles. A lot of us use a paint marker to tag them (credit here to Eddie) so you can see easily if they work loose.
 

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