Both stock track bars gone = new Jeep!

So about a week ago I installed my new Synergy front track bar and ditched the stock one. It made such a difference in road vibration & handling that I just replaced the rear too. It’s like a whole new Jeep. Every pothole, driveway crack, railroad track, and other little annoyance that would send a sharp jolt into the tub is almost gone! I didn’t even really adjust them well yet, just set em at the stock length. It’s so subtle, but I immediately noticed the difference & after a bit of driving the smoothness really sank in. Those dual durometer bushings are amazing & I can’t tell you enough how much I recommend dumping those stock bars if you still have em. I’m sure other manufacturers are just as good, but please if you’re lifted with the stock bars I’m telling you ditch em now.
 

SRQgunner

New member
So about a week ago I installed my new Synergy front track bar and ditched the stock one. It made such a difference in road vibration & handling that I just replaced the rear too. It’s like a whole new Jeep. Every pothole, driveway crack, railroad track, and other little annoyance that would send a sharp jolt into the tub is almost gone! I didn’t even really adjust them well yet, just set em at the stock length. It’s so subtle, but I immediately noticed the difference & after a bit of driving the smoothness really sank in. Those dual durometer bushings are amazing & I can’t tell you enough how much I recommend dumping those stock bars if you still have em. I’m sure other manufacturers are just as good, but please if you’re lifted with the stock bars I’m telling you ditch em now.

I can do basic mechanic things but wanted to ask is this a DIY bolt on install or would an alignment/adjustments need to be done after install
 

MrGiant

New member
Thanks for letting us know! On the roads I am on most of the time there are a lot of potholes....and rattling sound from some parts such as sun visors. I will think about upgrading soon as my warranty is gone

Mr.Giant - '92 YJ
Giant 2 - '18 JLUR
 

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
Awesome! I felt the same way after installing ours but didn't want to church it up too much just in case it was just me. Glad to hear you feel the same way :yup:
 

I can do basic mechanic things but wanted to ask is this a DIY bolt on install or would an alignment/adjustments need to be done after install

It’s been rainy & cold here so I just pulled the old track bar off & set the new one to the same length. I figured there’d be no difference, but when I did the front my steering wheel needed to be recentered which was another clue to me that it bound pretty bad. My driveway is slab & not very level. I need to find a parking lot to try and fine tune it, but you’ll be ok.
 

shekmark

New member
Scooby..how much lift do you have? Second question... what's wrong about OEM track bars if length is the same?
 

Scooby..how much lift do you have? Second question... what's wrong about OEM track bars if length is the same?

Sorry I originally missed your reply. I’m running 2” spacers & fox shocks. The stock track bars have very cheap bushings that aren’t really designed to rotate well. If you watch Eddie’s video he clamps the stock one & a synergy in a vice and demonstrates. Synergy’s design also allows the frame side to rotate a bit as the head is threaded into the adjuster. Stock is welded in place & doesn’t move. The cheap bushings & being twisted out of their designed alignment must cause a lot of extra noise & vibrations to get transferred from the axle to the frame. I did my tires first, 33s no lift, and noticed a small difference due to them being KM3s, but that was really only tire noise. Then I did the spacer lift which really affected everything negatively. She was pretty squirrelly around 75-80 mph so I got longer front LCAs & a pro alignment which helped that a bit. Then the steering stabilizer which only gave me a small difference on rail road tracks & bridge joints which I hit a lot of every day. Next I scored the used Foxs off the recycler here. The stock Sahara shocks were definitely not up to the task & the ride improved a bit. I learned to live with it. Finally I got the front track bar. it was such a drastic difference! The only way I can describe it is “bound”, like the suspension wasn’t really traveling well. Every crack or manhole cover was a small shock in the steering wheel & seat. Those hits were traveling through the vehicle to me. Once the front bar was in it felt like the front axle was hitting the object & I was finally sprung above it. But, I still felt it a bit when the rear tires went over so I got the rear bar too. GONE-the body is now fully floating over the road. Now, I’m not talking like an old Cadillac or something but it’s just so much more pleasant & compliant. Way less little steering corrections due to jolts. Way better than the day I bought it. I haven’t wheeled her yet, but I can’t wait.
 

ncb

Member
Sorry I originally missed your reply. I’m running 2” spacers & fox shocks. The stock track bars have very cheap bushings that aren’t really designed to rotate well. If you watch Eddie’s video he clamps the stock one & a synergy in a vice and demonstrates. Synergy’s design also allows the frame side to rotate a bit as the head is threaded into the adjuster. Stock is welded in place & doesn’t move. The cheap bushings & being twisted out of their designed alignment must cause a lot of extra noise & vibrations to get transferred from the axle to the frame. I did my tires first, 33s no lift, and noticed a small difference due to them being KM3s, but that was really only tire noise. Then I did the spacer lift which really affected everything negatively. She was pretty squirrelly around 75-80 mph so I got longer front LCAs & a pro alignment which helped that a bit. Then the steering stabilizer which only gave me a small difference on rail road tracks & bridge joints which I hit a lot of every day. Next I scored the used Foxs off the recycler here. The stock Sahara shocks were definitely not up to the task & the ride improved a bit. I learned to live with it. Finally I got the front track bar. it was such a drastic difference! The only way I can describe it is “bound”, like the suspension wasn’t really traveling well. Every crack or manhole cover was a small shock in the steering wheel & seat. Those hits were traveling through the vehicle to me. Once the front bar was in it felt like the front axle was hitting the object & I was finally sprung above it. But, I still felt it a bit when the rear tires went over so I got the rear bar too. GONE-the body is now fully floating over the road. Now, I’m not talking like an old Cadillac or something but it’s just so much more pleasant & compliant. Way less little steering corrections due to jolts. Way better than the day I bought it. I haven’t wheeled her yet, but I can’t wait.

Did you loosen the stock track bar bolts and torque them at the new ride height. If not they’re in a bind.


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shekmark

New member
Did you consider using Synergys Track Bar Brace? I see it advertised with Track bar. Wondering its purpose.
 

Did you loosen the stock track bar bolts and torque them at the new ride height. If not they’re in a bind.


Sent from my iPhone using JL Wrangler Jeep Forum mobile app

Several times. Each step was separate so I did the track bars each time.

Did you consider using Synergys Track Bar Brace? I see it advertised with Track bar. Wondering its purpose.

I only have 33" tires, but with 35s and up you'll have more weight and force going into that bracket. There's a video on Wayalife (sister site) that shows a member (who I think) was running 37x13.5s and it caused the whole steering box system to flex in the frame. This bracket beefs all that up, but I think for me I don't need it (yet).
 

Great news. I may make the switch . In general i think people underestimate bushings, tire pressure etc ( the little things) , and their impact on NHV of the vehicle.
 

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