2” spacer lift install questions

Hey y’all. Yesterday I installed the AEV 2” spacer kit to run on my Sahara. Some of you saw my plea for help with the FAD wiring connector. Short story: the connector on the Dana 35 is different than the 44. Here’s where I’m at. I was able to loosen all the rear control arms and both track bars, but only the front lowers. Do I really need to loosen all of them? I seem to remember you didn’t really need to on the JK. Once I button those up & install the pro cal snap I’ll write up a quick review with some picks.
 

iResq

New member
I've done 2.5's without loosening LCAs. I did disconnected trackbar.

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CalSgt

Member
I've done 2.5's without loosening LCAs. I did disconnected trackbar.

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I didn’t loosen Them for my 2” either. Track bars and shock removal, and freed up brake lines and such
 

CanadaJeep

Caught the Bug
Please do post pics when your done and anything you could recommend on making the install easier, I am waiting on my lift to come in the mail, and will be trying to do myself as well in about 2 weeks. Thanks in advance.
 

ncb

Member
The reason for loosening the control arms is to torque them at the new ride height so the bushing is unloaded. If you don’t the bushing will have a load on it at the new ride height. Is it a big deal if you don’t, I don’t know. Some do it, and some think it’s stupid. At a small height increase it’s probably not a big deal.


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Please do post pics when your done and anything you could recommend on making the install easier, I am waiting on my lift to come in the mail, and will be trying to do myself as well in about 2 weeks. Thanks in advance.

I'll respond here so you don't miss it. I saw you have a sport so some of the stuff will be different than the instructions for a rubicon (I have a Sahara so we're similar).
1) Make sure your jack & jack stands are high enough. My 3ton craftsman were almost tall enough for the JK, but not the JL. I had to cut a bunch of wood to put under the stands, but I wish my jack went taller.
2) Rent a spring compressor from an auto parts store. It helped just to get the last .5" onto the pads and then rotate them into position.
3) I jacked the front axle in the center next to the pumpkin towards passenger. Its the open area of tube between the pumpkin and FAD. Since the 35s pumpkin is on the driver's side you can't jack it from under there and be level.
4) Hit all the bolts with some PB Blaster before you start, front and rear.
5) Unbolting the front track bar may help, but getting it lined back up may be tough. On my JK I did this and then had to use a ratchet strap from the drivers side frame to the passenger side axle to pull them back together.
5) Removing the top front sway bar links requires a 6mm Allen key in the end of the bolt. Otherwise it'll just spin forever. I wasted almost 2 hours trying to figure this out.
6) the FAD on the 35 is different than the rubicon. There is a grey pull-out lock like your door harnesses and not a red push tab. I couldn't get mine unlocked so I just watched to make sure there was enough slack that it didn't pull on the wire.
7) Getting the front bumpstop spacer bolt on is a nightmare. The pad is convex and getting a wrench in there and up at an angle sucks. I still haven't completed this.
8) Oh, the AEV spacers are heavy and don't 'lock' in. You may want a light glue or double sided tape to help hold them. Also I'd test fit them and then draw a small line with a paint marker from the spacer to the perch to use as a reference as you're buttoning it up. Mine kept moving and I had to redo the coil placement like 3 times on each wheel. The rears index on the spacer so this is a big deal. The fronts index on the bottom pad so it matters a bit less.
 

CalSgt

Member
7) Getting the front bumpstop spacer bolt on is a nightmare. The pad is convex and getting a wrench in there and up at an angle sucks. I still haven't completed this.

I bent a cheapo wrench to do mine

ETA: I used a piece of masking tape to hold he nut to the wrench too
wrench.jpg
 

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
The reason for loosening the control arms is to torque them at the new ride height so the bushing is unloaded. If you don’t the bushing will have a load on it at the new ride height. Is it a big deal if you don’t, I don’t know. Some do it, and some think it’s stupid. At a small height increase it’s probably not a big deal.

This ^^^^

Not doing it isn't a big deal as it will still be within factory spec. However, I can feel the difference. Maybe it's just my imagination but it's there - not enough to matter though.
 

CalSgt

Member
I'll respond here so you don't miss it. I saw you have a sport so some of the stuff will be different than the instructions for a rubicon (I have a Sahara so we're similar).
1)
2)
3)
4)
5)
6)
7)
8)

Also if you are adding rear bump stop spacers, torque the upper control arm nut at the axle end before bolting in the bump stop spacers. I had to uninstall mine to torque that nut, could have probably torqued the bolt instead but the torque spec was for the nut.
 

I bent a cheapo wrench to do mine

ETA: I used a piece of masking tape to hold he nut to the wrench too
View attachment 12848

my grandfather was looking down on me as I had a 5/16’s wrench pre-bent like this. The issue was that AEVs bolts are wicked short and course threaded. We couldn’t get the bolt started, even with the tape trick. I finally was able to get a machined version that was longer so it threaded much easier and got them on.

This ^^^^

Not doing it isn't a big deal as it will still be within factory spec. However, I can feel the difference. Maybe it's just my imagination but it's there - not enough to matter though.

Thanks Eddie, here’s a good question maybe you can answer. When you did the EVO spacer, was the ride stiffer after? Mine definitely is. I don’t think the shock spacer is actually 2 inches so I wonder if it’s in a different place in its cycle that could be causing the stiff ride or the semi-bound control arms?

Also if you are adding rear bump stop spacers, torque the upper control arm nut at the axle end before bolting in the bump stop spacers. I had to uninstall mine to torque that nut, could have probably torqued the bolt instead but the torque spec was for the nut.

Yup totally blew it there. The instructions tell you to get it on the ground then check the torque of all the bolts, so after I put the rear end back up in the air, took the wheels off, and did the control arms I was so pissed when I saw that. I torqued it at the bolt. The bolts AEV sent were all grade ten course thread so it should be fine. I painted lines on everything for an easy check in a couple of days.

i sure hope this thread helps another rookie get through this easier. Thanks again for the advice.
 

CanadaJeep

Caught the Bug
Thanks scoobycarolanNC and all others that chimed in on this thread. I think I can do this myself :thinking:
 

Thanks scoobycarolanNC and all others that chimed in on this thread. I think I can do this myself :thinking:

LOL! Sorry bud, yes you defiantly can. I never worked on a vehicle before my JK and you're going to have to do a lot of "on-the-job" training. First thing, Do you have these items.
a torque wrench that can go to 200ft/lbs. (If not buy the one everyone talks about on here from eddies link)
sockets for it from 15->22mm
another normal ratchet (kinda big)
a couple of different ratchet extension that go from a couple of inches to maybe 18" in length
a long breaker bar
normal wrenches 15->21mm
6-8mm hex keys
a tall jack and jack stands
some cardboard to lay on the ground to slide around underneath.
a telescoping lil magnet to help pick top nuts & bolts you dropped and tools you cant reach

Thats everything I had and needed
 

CanadaJeep

Caught the Bug
Thanks again, I do have the tools, I did just order the TEKTON torque wrench 25-250ft/lbs . thru the link here. Between your pointers and Eddies video on the 2.5" spacer lift, I am confident that I can do this. I will post up pics once done. Just waiting on the deliveries. Hoping they come next week. :beer:
 

Dale72

Caught the Bug
Thanks again, I do have the tools, I did just order the TEKTON torque wrench 25-250ft/lbs . thru the link here. Between your pointers and Eddies video on the 2.5" spacer lift, I am confident that I can do this. I will post up pics once done. Just waiting on the deliveries. Hoping they come next week. [emoji481]
Just take your time and you will be saying a lot of dirty words along the way. But you will be able to do it yourself

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Thanks again, I do have the tools, I did just order the TEKTON torque wrench 25-250ft/lbs . thru the link here. Between your pointers and Eddies video on the 2.5" spacer lift, I am confident that I can do this. I will post up pics once done. Just waiting on the deliveries. Hoping they come next week. :beer:


Nice dude! One more lil thing, if you haven't already don't it, take off the front air dam/skid plate to give yourself more room. I forgot if that in Eddie's vid.
 

VitaMeVas

New member
Question? Change in ride quality?

Are u guys noting much change in suspension or ride quality with just a spacer lift? I’m not ready to do a coil spring/CA lift, but would like to run my old 35” tires confidently. Yes, I know Rubicons can fit 35” tires. Also, are u changing to an adjustable track bar?
 

CalSgt

Member
Are u guys noting much change in suspension or ride quality with just a spacer lift? I’m not ready to do a coil spring/CA lift, but would like to run my old 35” tires confidently. Yes, I know Rubicons can fit 35” tires. Also, are u changing to an adjustable track bar?

I noticed a change in the general feel of the Jeep but added 37” tires at the same time as the lift so not sure how much difference was the lift or tires. The ride quality was still good with the factory shocks, but I noticed improvement going to Rancho 5000 shocks they seemed to handle the heavy tires better.

I put about 10K miles on without adding track bars just fine, I did have a little bit of steering shimmy but I just added track bars (and more lift) and the shimmy is still there so the only part left to replace is the drag link. Or Maybe I just need to put a new stabilizer on every month...
 

VitaMeVas

New member
I noticed a change in the general feel of the Jeep but added 37” tires at the same time as the lift so not sure how much difference was the lift or tires. The ride quality was still good with the factory shocks, but I noticed improvement going to Rancho 5000 shocks they seemed to handle the heavy tires better.

I put about 10K miles on without adding track bars just fine, I did have a little bit of steering shimmy but I just added track bars (and more lift) and the shimmy is still there so the only part left to replace is the drag link. Or Maybe I just need to put a new stabilizer on every month...

Ha. Thanks for the input. After I coil lifted my JKU, the ride was very stiff. After getting the JLU, I really enjoy the cushy ride and would like to wear out the OE components first before doing a lift. Considering the Dynatrac endurosport Eddie was sporting.
 

CalSgt

Member
Ha. Thanks for the input. After I coil lifted my JKU, the ride was very stiff. After getting the JLU, I really enjoy the cushy ride and would like to wear out the OE components first before doing a lift. Considering the Dynatrac endurosport Eddie was sporting.

I just put the EVO 3.5” coils on mine & they ride as good as stock in my opinion
 

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