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Thread: 2 spacer lift install questions

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    Been Around the Block scoobycarolanNC's Avatar
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    2 spacer lift install questions

    Hey yall. Yesterday I installed the AEV 2 spacer kit to run on my Sahara. Some of you saw my plea for help with the FAD wiring connector. Short story: the connector on the Dana 35 is different than the 44. Heres where Im at. I was able to loosen all the rear control arms and both track bars, but only the front lowers. Do I really need to loosen all of them? I seem to remember you didnt really need to on the JK. Once I button those up & install the pro cal snap Ill write up a quick review with some picks.

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    I've done 2.5's without loosening LCAs. I did disconnected trackbar.

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    Been Around the Block CalSgt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by iResq View Post
    I've done 2.5's without loosening LCAs. I did disconnected trackbar.

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    I didnt loosen Them for my 2 either. Track bars and shock removal, and freed up brake lines and such

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    Been Around the Block scoobycarolanNC's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by iResq View Post
    I've done 2.5's without loosening LCAs. I did disconnected trackbar.
    Quote Originally Posted by CalSgt View Post
    I didnt loosen Them for my 2 either. Track bars and shock removal, and freed up brake lines and such
    Thanks fellas! I kinda figured it wasnt a crazy height to have the bushings readjust to. Now Ive just got to go retorque the ones I loosened.

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    Knows a Thing or Two CanadaJeep's Avatar
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    Please do post pics when your done and anything you could recommend on making the install easier, I am waiting on my lift to come in the mail, and will be trying to do myself as well in about 2 weeks. Thanks in advance.
    SCOTT *lllllll*
    2018 STING GRAY JL SPORT
    2" AEV spacer lift and 35 x 12.5

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    Caught the Bug
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    The reason for loosening the control arms is to torque them at the new ride height so the bushing is unloaded. If you dont the bushing will have a load on it at the new ride height. Is it a big deal if you dont, I dont know. Some do it, and some think its stupid. At a small height increase its probably not a big deal.


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    Been Around the Block scoobycarolanNC's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CanadaJeep View Post
    Please do post pics when your done and anything you could recommend on making the install easier, I am waiting on my lift to come in the mail, and will be trying to do myself as well in about 2 weeks. Thanks in advance.
    I'll respond here so you don't miss it. I saw you have a sport so some of the stuff will be different than the instructions for a rubicon (I have a Sahara so we're similar).
    1) Make sure your jack & jack stands are high enough. My 3ton craftsman were almost tall enough for the JK, but not the JL. I had to cut a bunch of wood to put under the stands, but I wish my jack went taller.
    2) Rent a spring compressor from an auto parts store. It helped just to get the last .5" onto the pads and then rotate them into position.
    3) I jacked the front axle in the center next to the pumpkin towards passenger. Its the open area of tube between the pumpkin and FAD. Since the 35s pumpkin is on the driver's side you can't jack it from under there and be level.
    4) Hit all the bolts with some PB Blaster before you start, front and rear.
    5) Unbolting the front track bar may help, but getting it lined back up may be tough. On my JK I did this and then had to use a ratchet strap from the drivers side frame to the passenger side axle to pull them back together.
    5) Removing the top front sway bar links requires a 6mm Allen key in the end of the bolt. Otherwise it'll just spin forever. I wasted almost 2 hours trying to figure this out.
    6) the FAD on the 35 is different than the rubicon. There is a grey pull-out lock like your door harnesses and not a red push tab. I couldn't get mine unlocked so I just watched to make sure there was enough slack that it didn't pull on the wire.
    7) Getting the front bumpstop spacer bolt on is a nightmare. The pad is convex and getting a wrench in there and up at an angle sucks. I still haven't completed this.
    8) Oh, the AEV spacers are heavy and don't 'lock' in. You may want a light glue or double sided tape to help hold them. Also I'd test fit them and then draw a small line with a paint marker from the spacer to the perch to use as a reference as you're buttoning it up. Mine kept moving and I had to redo the coil placement like 3 times on each wheel. The rears index on the spacer so this is a big deal. The fronts index on the bottom pad so it matters a bit less.

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    Been Around the Block CalSgt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by scoobycarolanNC View Post
    7) Getting the front bumpstop spacer bolt on is a nightmare. The pad is convex and getting a wrench in there and up at an angle sucks. I still haven't completed this.
    I bent a cheapo wrench to do mine

    ETA: I used a piece of masking tape to hold he nut to the wrench too
    wrench.jpg

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    Administrator wayoflife's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ncb View Post
    The reason for loosening the control arms is to torque them at the new ride height so the bushing is unloaded. If you dont the bushing will have a load on it at the new ride height. Is it a big deal if you dont, I dont know. Some do it, and some think its stupid. At a small height increase its probably not a big deal.
    This ^^^^

    Not doing it isn't a big deal as it will still be within factory spec. However, I can feel the difference. Maybe it's just my imagination but it's there - not enough to matter though.

  10. #10
    Been Around the Block CalSgt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by scoobycarolanNC View Post
    I'll respond here so you don't miss it. I saw you have a sport so some of the stuff will be different than the instructions for a rubicon (I have a Sahara so we're similar).
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    Also if you are adding rear bump stop spacers, torque the upper control arm nut at the axle end before bolting in the bump stop spacers. I had to uninstall mine to torque that nut, could have probably torqued the bolt instead but the torque spec was for the nut.

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