doubletapdaddy
Caught the Bug
Yes, ensure that the cutouts are welded. The front brackets have the same cutouts, however they are on the inside of the frame.
Got it, thanks.Yep. These cutouts have to be welded or the brackets can break.
https://jlwrangler.com/showthread.php?1899-dbltap-s-Mojito!-JLUR&p=53804&viewfull=1#post53804
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I believe my brackets and arms are the newest. My arms, some of them, have angled zirks.Also, be sure to check your rear brackets at the UCA mounts to see if you have the newer version with clearance for the zerks as seen HERE. You want to avoid THIS.
Even with the additional clearance, it was still pretty tight. I would advise against using the Moog 621 low profile zerks on the frame-side (non-adjustable) Johnny Joints. The zerk threads are too long and will bottom out on the Johnny Joint urethane bushings before they are seated on the steel housing. I ended up using 1/4-28 plugs, which I can just take out and insert a zerk when I need to grease.
Moog 621 Low Profile Zerks
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| Low Profile 621 | Standard | 1/4-28 Plug |
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Looks a little tall.
2012 JKUR Billet Silver
2012 JK Dozer
1975 DJ5 Postal
That was before I properly set it up. [emoji106]
I forgot to edit that post.
I'm at 3" inches in rear and front with about a 1/4" more on gas tank. Rides great, taking corners scary flat, no body roll and the valving, imo, is perfect for me. Enough road feedback to feel connected but soft enough for daily driving.
A few things I learned :
If you order coilovers prepare to wait 2 months or more, I canceled and went with non adj.
When you mount arms to new frame bra jets, test fit for clearances on bottom of bracket.
Watch Eddie's video.
You will need spacers if running more than a 3.75 backspace.
This kit is well engineered.
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I finished at midnight Saturday. Didn't have lots of time for setup. Coilovers, unless there done in a shop like Evo, require patience and tweaks for set up. Each person will want a different look and feel. The higher you go, the slightly firmer ride you will get. I don't like it too high, about where I'm at now, or too low, where I've seen some guys at. But again, everyone has their preferences. This is the awesome thing about coilovers, unlimited tweaking.Looks good. Also curious about the ride height. I have the same setup and run 2” preload on all 4 corners and have clearance for 37s. Did you need 3” or just want the taller ride height?
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Question on the Evo longarms, do the Jonny joints come pre greased? If not what grease should I use?
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My arms are making some creaking noises that's why I ask. I don't know if it's normal, or there's a break in period but it sounds like I'm riding in an old pirate ship.Mine came pre-greased. If you're not sure, you can remove a zerk to be sure. Currie recommends moly grease for Johnny Joints. I use Redline CV-2 that I picked up pretty cheap on Google Shopping.
Would that cause it!?Am I tripping... Looks like the outside edge of the bracket isn't welded
Would that cause it!?
Hmmm.... I think you might have something there, thanks a lot!
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OK. Gonna talk to my welder tonight. Let u know how it goes.I don't know... I was just reading through & noticed
OK. Gonna talk to my welder tonight. Let u know how it goes.
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Copy that.Yes, those should be welded. I just inspected mine to be sure, and I've got beads at all arrows...
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Also, although this is my first experience with Johnny Joints, I would say that Johnny Joints may squeak, but not creak. I thought that my Johnny Joints were creaking, and it turned out to be broken brackets that were missing beads in the cutouts. So be sure to inspect everything very thoroughly.
The bolts that set the longarm brackets in place?I thought my Johnny joints were creaking. Turned out to be the body to frame bolts. I coated them in white lithium grease and the creaking is gone now.
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