Page 5 of 9 FirstFirst ... 34567 ... LastLast
Results 41 to 50 of 83

Thread: EVO JL Coilover Discussion Thread

  1. #41
    Old Timer doubletapdaddy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Location
    Colorado Springs
    Posts
    3,051
    Yes, ensure that the cutouts are welded. The front brackets have the same cutouts, however they are on the inside of the frame.

  2. #42
    Been Around the Block Deezus's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    Fair Oaks, Ca.
    Posts
    355
    Like this? IMG_20190922_212031.jpgIMG_20190922_211955.jpg

    Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk

  3. #43
    Been Around the Block Deezus's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    Fair Oaks, Ca.
    Posts
    355
    Quote Originally Posted by JTCO View Post
    Yep. These cutouts have to be welded or the brackets can break.

    https://jlwrangler.com/showthread.ph...ll=1#post53804

    Attachment 13624
    Got it, thanks.

    Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk

  4. #44
    Old Timer doubletapdaddy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Location
    Colorado Springs
    Posts
    3,051
    Also, be sure to check your rear brackets at the UCA mounts to see if you have the newer version with clearance for the zerks as seen HERE. You want to avoid THIS.

    Even with the additional clearance, it was still pretty tight. I would advise against using the Moog 621 low profile zerks on the frame-side (non-adjustable) Johnny Joints. The zerk threads are too long and will bottom out on the Johnny Joint urethane bushings before they are seated on the steel housing. I ended up using 1/4-28 plugs, which I can just take out and insert a zerk when I need to grease.

    Moog 621 Low Profile Zerks
    20190725_154335-1024x768.jpg

    20190725_154319-1024x768.jpg

    | Low Profile 621 | Standard | 1/4-28 Plug |
    20190814_204542-1024x767.jpg
    20190814_204524-1024x768.jpg
    20190814_204422-1024x768.jpg

  5. #45
    Been Around the Block Deezus's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    Fair Oaks, Ca.
    Posts
    355
    Quote Originally Posted by doubletapdaddy View Post
    Also, be sure to check your rear brackets at the UCA mounts to see if you have the newer version with clearance for the zerks as seen HERE. You want to avoid THIS.

    Even with the additional clearance, it was still pretty tight. I would advise against using the Moog 621 low profile zerks on the frame-side (non-adjustable) Johnny Joints. The zerk threads are too long and will bottom out on the Johnny Joint urethane bushings before they are seated on the steel housing. I ended up using 1/4-28 plugs, which I can just take out and insert a zerk when I need to grease.

    Moog 621 Low Profile Zerks
    20190725_154335-1024x768.jpg

    20190725_154319-1024x768.jpg

    | Low Profile 621 | Standard | 1/4-28 Plug |
    20190814_204542-1024x767.jpg
    20190814_204524-1024x768.jpg
    20190814_204422-1024x768.jpg
    I believe my brackets and arms are the newest. My arms, some of them, have angled zirks.
    How often shod I grease them?

    Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk

  6. #46
    Been Around the Block Deezus's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    Fair Oaks, Ca.
    Posts
    355
    Quote Originally Posted by OverlanderJL View Post
    Looks a little tall.


    2012 JKUR Billet Silver
    2012 JK Dozer
    1975 DJ5 Postal
    My inner fenders and liners are removed and that clears almost 3" for wheel travel.


    Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk

  7. #47
    Caught the Bug JL_John's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Location
    Southern California
    Posts
    58
    Quote Originally Posted by Deezus View Post
    That was before I properly set it up.
    I forgot to edit that post.
    I'm at 3" inches in rear and front with about a 1/4" more on gas tank. Rides great, taking corners scary flat, no body roll and the valving, imo, is perfect for me. Enough road feedback to feel connected but soft enough for daily driving.
    A few things I learned :

    If you order coilovers prepare to wait 2 months or more, I canceled and went with non adj.
    When you mount arms to new frame bra jets, test fit for clearances on bottom of bracket.
    Watch Eddie's video.
    You will need spacers if running more than a 3.75 backspace.
    This kit is well engineered.


    Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk
    Looks good. Also curious about the ride height. I have the same setup and run 2 preload on all 4 corners and have clearance for 37s. Did you need 3 or just want the taller ride height?


    Sent from my iPhone using JL Wrangler Jeep Forum mobile app

  8. #48
    Been Around the Block Deezus's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    Fair Oaks, Ca.
    Posts
    355
    Quote Originally Posted by JL_John View Post
    Looks good. Also curious about the ride height. I have the same setup and run 2 preload on all 4 corners and have clearance for 37s. Did you need 3 or just want the taller ride height?


    Sent from my iPhone using JL Wrangler Jeep Forum mobile app
    I finished at midnight Saturday. Didn't have lots of time for setup. Coilovers, unless there done in a shop like Evo, require patience and tweaks for set up. Each person will want a different look and feel. The higher you go, the slightly firmer ride you will get. I don't like it too high, about where I'm at now, or too low, where I've seen some guys at. But again, everyone has their preferences. This is the awesome thing about coilovers, unlimited tweaking.
    Also, adjustment is not linear. Meaning if I take the 3" I have on my ride height and go 2.5 that won't equal 1/2" lower.
    I'm sure you guys already know all of this, I'm learning as I go...
    Again, my feeling is I should be able to look good(mall crawling) and perform good (rock crawling). So I prefer the open wheel look that's why I removed the liners,which in turn makes it look very tall. I'm 9.5" axle to frame.

    Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk

  9. #49
    Fresh Catch
    Join Date
    Aug 2018
    Location
    Turlock, CA
    Posts
    4
    Just to add a little Mall Rated to this discussion...

    I did the install myself as well, however I'm running short/mid arms (Metal Cloak) and 35's. I don't have any armor yet and wanted it to sit as low as possible. The driver front sits the highest in stock form with a full gas tank, so I used that as my reference point from which to set all the others. I adjusted the front left all the way up, and then backed it down just until the set screw was in the correct position. Took measurements all around, adjusted the preload, drove it around, cycled the suspension, took measurements, adjusted preload, drove it around, cycled the suspension, took measurements, adjusted preload, drove it around, cycled the suspension, took measurements... well, you get the idea. lol

    Here's the preload adjustments I ended up with:

    Driver front: ~0"
    Driver rear: ~1/2"
    Passenger front: ~3/4"
    Passenger rear: ~7'8"

    To figure out my actual lift height I took measurements from wheel center to fender, and compared to a stock Rubicon, I've got 3.5" of suspension lift. Lack of of preload doesn't cause me any issues with coils unloading as the short arms get installed with limit straps. I probably should do another round of adjustments now that I've put about 7500 miles on them, but it still looks like it's sitting level side to side and is raked up just slightly in the rear. Full armor and 37's are all part of the plan, and I'll be ready to crank up the preload when that day comes.

  10. #50
    Been Around the Block Deezus's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    Fair Oaks, Ca.
    Posts
    355
    Question on the Evo longarms, do the Jonny joints come pre greased? If not what grease should I use?

    Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

Page 5 of 9 FirstFirst ... 34567 ... LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •