EVO JL Coilover Discussion Thread

doubletapdaddy

Caught the Bug
Yes, ensure that the cutouts are welded. The front brackets have the same cutouts, however they are on the inside of the frame.
 

doubletapdaddy

Caught the Bug
Also, be sure to check your rear brackets at the UCA mounts to see if you have the newer version with clearance for the zerks as seen HERE. You want to avoid THIS.

Even with the additional clearance, it was still pretty tight. I would advise against using the Moog 621 low profile zerks on the frame-side (non-adjustable) Johnny Joints. The zerk threads are too long and will bottom out on the Johnny Joint urethane bushings before they are seated on the steel housing. I ended up using 1/4-28 plugs, which I can just take out and insert a zerk when I need to grease.

Moog 621 Low Profile Zerks
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| Low Profile 621 | Standard | 1/4-28 Plug |
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Deezus

New member
Also, be sure to check your rear brackets at the UCA mounts to see if you have the newer version with clearance for the zerks as seen HERE. You want to avoid THIS.

Even with the additional clearance, it was still pretty tight. I would advise against using the Moog 621 low profile zerks on the frame-side (non-adjustable) Johnny Joints. The zerk threads are too long and will bottom out on the Johnny Joint urethane bushings before they are seated on the steel housing. I ended up using 1/4-28 plugs, which I can just take out and insert a zerk when I need to grease.

Moog 621 Low Profile Zerks
View attachment 13627

View attachment 13628

| Low Profile 621 | Standard | 1/4-28 Plug |
View attachment 13629
View attachment 13630
View attachment 13631
I believe my brackets and arms are the newest. My arms, some of them, have angled zirks.
How often shod I grease them?

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JL_John

New member
That was before I properly set it up. [emoji106]
I forgot to edit that post.
I'm at 3" inches in rear and front with about a 1/4" more on gas tank. Rides great, taking corners scary flat, no body roll and the valving, imo, is perfect for me. Enough road feedback to feel connected but soft enough for daily driving.
A few things I learned :

If you order coilovers prepare to wait 2 months or more, I canceled and went with non adj.
When you mount arms to new frame bra jets, test fit for clearances on bottom of bracket.
Watch Eddie's video.
You will need spacers if running more than a 3.75 backspace.
This kit is well engineered.


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Looks good. Also curious about the ride height. I have the same setup and run 2” preload on all 4 corners and have clearance for 37s. Did you need 3” or just want the taller ride height?


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Deezus

New member
Looks good. Also curious about the ride height. I have the same setup and run 2” preload on all 4 corners and have clearance for 37s. Did you need 3” or just want the taller ride height?


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I finished at midnight Saturday. Didn't have lots of time for setup. Coilovers, unless there done in a shop like Evo, require patience and tweaks for set up. Each person will want a different look and feel. The higher you go, the slightly firmer ride you will get. I don't like it too high, about where I'm at now, or too low, where I've seen some guys at. But again, everyone has their preferences. This is the awesome thing about coilovers, unlimited tweaking.
Also, adjustment is not linear. Meaning if I take the 3" I have on my ride height and go 2.5 that won't equal 1/2" lower.
I'm sure you guys already know all of this, I'm learning as I go...
Again, my feeling is I should be able to look good(mall crawling) and perform good (rock crawling). So I prefer the open wheel look that's why I removed the liners,which in turn makes it look very tall. I'm 9.5" axle to frame.

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tonygiotta

New member
Just to add a little Mall Rated to this discussion...

I did the install myself as well, however I'm running short/mid arms (Metal Cloak) and 35's. I don't have any armor yet and wanted it to sit as low as possible. The driver front sits the highest in stock form with a full gas tank, so I used that as my reference point from which to set all the others. I adjusted the front left all the way up, and then backed it down just until the set screw was in the correct position. Took measurements all around, adjusted the preload, drove it around, cycled the suspension, took measurements, adjusted preload, drove it around, cycled the suspension, took measurements, adjusted preload, drove it around, cycled the suspension, took measurements... well, you get the idea. lol

Here's the preload adjustments I ended up with:

Driver front: ~0"
Driver rear: ~1/2"
Passenger front: ~3/4"
Passenger rear: ~7'8"

To figure out my actual lift height I took measurements from wheel center to fender, and compared to a stock Rubicon, I've got 3.5" of suspension lift. Lack of of preload doesn't cause me any issues with coils unloading as the short arms get installed with limit straps. I probably should do another round of adjustments now that I've put about 7500 miles on them, but it still looks like it's sitting level side to side and is raked up just slightly in the rear. Full armor and 37's are all part of the plan, and I'll be ready to crank up the preload when that day comes. :thumb:
 

Deezus

New member
Question on the Evo longarms, do the Jonny joints come pre greased? If not what grease should I use?

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doubletapdaddy

Caught the Bug
Question on the Evo longarms, do the Jonny joints come pre greased? If not what grease should I use?

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Mine came pre-greased. If you're not sure, you can remove a zerk to be sure. Currie recommends moly grease for Johnny Joints. I use Redline CV-2 that I picked up pretty cheap on Google Shopping.
 

Deezus

New member
Mine came pre-greased. If you're not sure, you can remove a zerk to be sure. Currie recommends moly grease for Johnny Joints. I use Redline CV-2 that I picked up pretty cheap on Google Shopping.
My arms are making some creaking noises that's why I ask. I don't know if it's normal, or there's a break in period but it sounds like I'm riding in an old pirate ship.
It's driving me crazy.

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Deezus

New member
Am I tripping... Looks like the outside edge of the bracket isn't welded
Would that cause it!?
Hmmm.... I think you might have something there, thanks a lot!

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doubletapdaddy

Caught the Bug
OK. Gonna talk to my welder tonight. Let u know how it goes.

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Yes, those should be welded. I just inspected mine to be sure, and I've got beads at all arrows...

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Also, although this is my first experience with Johnny Joints, I would say that Johnny Joints may squeak, but not creak. I thought that my Johnny Joints were creaking, and it turned out to be broken brackets that were missing beads in the cutouts. So be sure to inspect everything very thoroughly.
 

Deezus

New member
Yes, those should be welded. I just inspected mine to be sure, and I've got beads at all arrows...

View attachment 13691

View attachment 13692

Also, although this is my first experience with Johnny Joints, I would say that Johnny Joints may squeak, but not creak. I thought that my Johnny Joints were creaking, and it turned out to be broken brackets that were missing beads in the cutouts. So be sure to inspect everything very thoroughly.
Copy that.

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