OverlanderJL
Resident Smartass
You should be running more than 44’s with a hemi anyway.
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Sure it's Bigger... but is it actually Better? DISSECTING the JL WRANGLER Front Axle
- Thread starter wayoflife
- Start date
You should be running more than 44’s with a hemi anyway.
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Not sure why RCV's would make a difference. Even if they were as awesome as some choose to believe, you're weak link will still be your ring and pinion. For 40" tires, you really want to be running 5.38's but in a Dana 44, that would leave you with a very small pinion. The housing would be able to handling it no problem.
This ^^^^
notnalc68
That dude from Mississippi
Very informative. Thank you Wayalife, and Dynatrac!
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StingRubi19
New member
That's some nice info right there. Safe to say that the JL's end forgings are handling the 37s just fine? Looking forward to seeing those updates photos of the tube thickness.
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notnalc68
That dude from Mississippi
I’d be willing to bet they won’t hold up to hard wheeling, or bombing across the desert. Better than the JK, but not ideal.
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OverlanderJL
Resident Smartass
Not everyone needs or wants 40’s. 37’s will still break factory axles if used hard enough. 37’s and 60’s is like pulling a boat across a beach. It’s an anchor.
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Saddletramp
Member
Bent mine and not sure when or how.
JLUR, 5000 mi, 37’s.
Got under it a week ago to change the oil and noticed the drivers side seals leaking.
Camber on the passenger side was normal, camber on the drivers side was close to 4 degrees.
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JLUR, 5000 mi, 37’s.
Got under it a week ago to change the oil and noticed the drivers side seals leaking.
Camber on the passenger side was normal, camber on the drivers side was close to 4 degrees.
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Shadow's_Jepp
New member
Interesting info. & picture's.
Roo4JK
New member
Thanks Eddy, very interesting.
Especially the comparison between the JL and JK. Even after your/Dynatrac correction, the axes remain very thin. I think..
(Here in the Netherlands (Europe) is the JL still badly available, because of our government taxes system….)
My Dana 30, stock on my JK X, was already crooked with 33" tires ....
And am very happy with the switch to mine PR44-RCV-ARB-Reids knuckles with 3.125 "/ 0.5" axle tube (2014).
Dynatrac Rocks !! :rock:
Thanks again, also for all the other reviews, info and findings. Nice to follow.
Especially the comparison between the JL and JK. Even after your/Dynatrac correction, the axes remain very thin. I think..
(Here in the Netherlands (Europe) is the JL still badly available, because of our government taxes system….)
My Dana 30, stock on my JK X, was already crooked with 33" tires ....
And am very happy with the switch to mine PR44-RCV-ARB-Reids knuckles with 3.125 "/ 0.5" axle tube (2014).
Dynatrac Rocks !! :rock:
Thanks again, also for all the other reviews, info and findings. Nice to follow.
So would that mean the tubes used are the same across the range? AFAIK only the rear axle M220 is "shared" between all models if one goes for a LSD in Sahara/Sport (narrow) & Rubicon (wide).
Do we know anything about the tubing variance between M186/M200/M210/M220(n|w)? Unless what you're saying is that tubes are identical, the only difference is the pinion ring diameter.
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I know your pain too well. Went out for a long trip across the desert, nothing crazy, and came back with some nicely added camber.
And and here's the good part about D44: it let go (bent) relatively evenly from a knuckle through the pumpkin. $200 later had it fixed.
IMHO larger diameter with not-so-much thicker walls in JL would deform the tubes rather than slightly bend them.
JTCO
Meme King
Wow. That sucks. Insurance taking care of it?
So far so good or at least, on our JL. We have seen a couple of JL's with camber on their front axle but couldn't tell for sure if it was the end forging that bent or the tubes. My best guess was the tubes.
As much as we'd love to run 40's, we have no plans to or at least, not anytime soon. Not a fan of 42's. As far as the Dana 60 goes, it costs a lot more money, has a HUGE diff that robs you of ground clearance, weighs a ton and lacks the steering/turning radius that a 44 has.
This ^^^^
Well that sucks! This is the 2nd one we've seen on a JL and why we've been wanting a ProRock.
Yes. All the tubes on the factory front axle are the same diameter and wall thickness. All the end forgings and knuckles are the same as well. Where they are different are in the differentials, axle shafts and overall width. This has been physically verified.
silverbullet88
New member
Having a larger OD is stronger than simply increasing the wall thickness of the same Diameter tube so at least Jeep went to 2.75. Obviously we know that 2.75 OD w/ .281 wall thickness is larger than the JK, but I wonder how the FAD piece comes into play. Since it is pressed in on both sides? I know there have been a few breaks right at the FAD part of the housing.
Yeah, I can tell you first hand that the FAD unit introduces a major weak point in the axle housing. Did not take much at all to break, right at the FAD unit. 6 JKs, 4 with stock axles, handled the same obstacle with ease. The size of the FAD hole is crazy. Half of the tube is opened up on the back side.
JTCO
Meme King
Thanks for posting that. Yeah, that FAD opening is massive and really takes away from the overall circumference of that cast piece.
Thank you so much for posting up these pics. This is EXACTLY what I'm hoping to avoid out on the trail!
Lumberjack
New member
JL Broken Front Axle Housing
We are part of a small group that does a Holiday Rally wheeling trip between Christmas and New Years and this year we had a Rubicon JL break its front axle housing on Trail 15 at Windrock. Broke right at the FAD, really poor design. JL only had 3K on it and Jeep has refused to warranty it. They are definitely weaker.
We are part of a small group that does a Holiday Rally wheeling trip between Christmas and New Years and this year we had a Rubicon JL break its front axle housing on Trail 15 at Windrock. Broke right at the FAD, really poor design. JL only had 3K on it and Jeep has refused to warranty it. They are definitely weaker.