Sure it's Bigger... but is it actually Better? DISSECTING the JL WRANGLER Front Axle

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
I would buy a factory rubicon axle!! I’m planning on upgrading my sport setup so I’m looking at new,but if I could get a used in good condition I’d take it.

LOL! Even back in the JK days, I always saw selling a front Rubicon 44 complete as being a better way to go or, at least, so long at it was in good shape. Me, I had played a bit too hard on my last one and bent it pretty good. Basically, the housing was junk and so upgrading to a ProRock 44 and swapping the internals was a great option.

I have their relocation kit and tie rod but a stock Rubicon draglink.

I’m curious how it binds up?

The way Synergy made it sound, the factory tie-rod is either too big and or it just gets in the way of the stabilizer as a full turn.
 

Deezus

New member
Unfortunately, I don't think so. A vast majority of people who'll upgrade to a ProRock 44 are ones that own a Sport or Sahara. Most of the people with Rubicons typically end up going with something better like an XD60. What I can tell you is that there might be something in the works that's somewhere in between but I couldn't tell you any of the details. That being said, I think you could easily sell a Rubicon front axle and use the money from it to help pay for a ProRock 44.



Yeah, I talked to them and that's what they told me - that I needed one of their tie-rods too. Needless to say, that's what I have on order now.
Thanks. I was hoping to run 37s on these axles, now I'm not sure I wanna wheel until I have a new front axle.... Again, I know I don't wheel as hard as most people but I do run the Rubicon about 7 or 8 times a year and Fordyce at least once.
And it also makes me question Jeeps bs about being stronger axles, how can they be stronger with giant holes in them?
I still question whether a Rubicon is worth buying, if you wanna run bigger tires.



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wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
Thanks. I was hoping to run 37s on these axles, now I'm not sure I wanna wheel until I have a new front axle.... Again, I know I don't wheel as hard as most people but I do run the Rubicon about 7 or 8 times a year and Fordyce at least once.
And it also makes me question Jeeps bs about being stronger axles, how can they be stronger with giant holes in them?
I still question whether a Rubicon is worth buying, if you wanna run bigger tires.

Speed will bend and/or break an axle housing way more than rock crawling could ever hope to. I think you'll be fine based on the kind of wheeling you do. As far as the axles being stronger goes, I suppose that's relative. It is without question stronger than what came on a JK but nowhere near as strong as something like a ProRock. For me, a Rubicon is TOTALLY worth buying if only because it comes with a 4:1 transfer case and electronic sway bar disconnects. As I've said before, I've tried going down the road of buying a Sport and adding in all the features that I wanted and it ended up costing way more that if I had just started with a Rubicon.

I'd like to see an install video of that...

Well, they're back ordered right now but I was told that mine should be coming in about 4 weeks. When I get it, maybe I'll see if I can install the steering stabilizer relocation kit using the factory tie-rod and just to show why it won't work.
 

Deezus

New member
Speed will bend and/or break an axle housing way more than rock crawling could ever hope to. I think you'll be fine based on the kind of wheeling you do. As far as the axles being stronger goes, I suppose that's relative. It is without question stronger than what came on a JK but nowhere near as strong as something like a ProRock. For me, a Rubicon is TOTALLY worth buying if only because it comes with a 4:1 transfer case and electronic sway bar disconnects. As I've said before, I've tried going down the road of buying a Sport and adding in all the features that I wanted and it ended up costing way more that if I had just started with a Rubicon.



Well, they're back ordered right now but I was told that mine should be coming in about 4 weeks. When I get it, maybe I'll see if I can install the steering stabilizer relocation kit using the factory tie-rod and just to show why it won't work.
I went to Deer Valley, The Rubicon and Fordyce last year. Because Jeep is so purty and because I've learned to drive better it was all slow and easy and I was actually able to enjoy it more and complete obstacles better. But like I said, if your gonna advertise stronger axles and open up the wheel wells like that then maybe bypass the fad on Rubicon at least. Even if I could I wouldn't change buying a Rubicon model it's just the principle.
Anyway, I found out that the clamp doesn't mount flush and bottoms out on my tie rod.
The stock tie rod doesn't have the up and down movement of the JK before it. Do you know if Synergys tie rod moves up and down?

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wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
I went to Deer Valley, The Rubicon and Fordyce last year. Because Jeep is so purty and because I've learned to drive better it was all slow and easy and I was actually able to enjoy it more and complete obstacles better. But like I said, if your gonna advertise stronger axles and open up the wheel wells like that then maybe bypass the fad on Rubicon at least. Even if I could I wouldn't change buying a Rubicon model it's just the principle.
Anyway, I found out that the clamp doesn't mount flush and bottoms out on my tie rod.
The stock tie rod doesn't have the up and down movement of the JK before it. Do you know if Synergys tie rod moves up and down?

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Honestly, I have no idea or at least, not as of yet. I'll be sure to make a video of the install and testing. :)
 

13_gecko_rubi

New member
That, I'm not 100% sure off. I'm pretty sure the actual connector is a bit bigger on the JL but the wiring should be the same.
I bet if you hook up a normal e-locker to the Rubicon factory system it doesn't work. I'll try to confirm. The JK the position switch was just a switch. It was open/closed. The JL is a rheostat type sensor. It expects to see a certain resistance both open and closed. If it's unplugged (since a normal e-locker doesn't have a sensor) I bet the system logs a fault and shuts down the locker output signal. Just stating this based on how most outputs work. I'm NOT 100% sure.

Sent via....
 

Deezus

New member
I bet if you hook up a normal e-locker to the Rubicon factory system it doesn't work. I'll try to confirm. The JK the position switch was just a switch. It was open/closed. The JL is a rheostat type sensor. It expects to see a certain resistance both open and closed. If it's unplugged (since a normal e-locker doesn't have a sensor) I bet the system logs a fault and shuts down the locker output signal. Just stating this based on how most outputs work. I'm NOT 100% sure.

Sent via....
Definitely let us know.

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JeepJL

New member
I bet if you hook up a normal e-locker to the Rubicon factory system it doesn't work. I'll try to confirm. The JK the position switch was just a switch. It was open/closed. The JL is a rheostat type sensor. It expects to see a certain resistance both open and closed. If it's unplugged (since a normal e-locker doesn't have a sensor) I bet the system logs a fault and shuts down the locker output signal. Just stating this based on how most outputs work. I'm NOT 100% sure.

Sent via....

My UDs on my JK worked fine off the factory switch. The lights on the dash just flashed like they never locked in. One plug provides the 12v and the other is what shows them to be engaged off the plunger. You should be fine with just the power plug wired to a regular elocker. It just won’t show it to be engaged on the dash.


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13_gecko_rubi

New member
My UDs on my JK worked fine off the factory switch. The lights on the dash just flashed like they never locked in. One plug provides the 12v and the other is what shows them to be engaged off the plunger. You should be fine with just the power plug wired to a regular elocker. It just won’t show it to be engaged on the dash.


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The JL system is totally different than the JK was. It's much smarter because the blinking bs on the JK was so confusing to many people.

Sent via....
 

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
Your reply made me go digging so thank you. Unfortunately I was right. This is the fault type that would happen. And when it sees open (as it would with locker sensor unhooked) it would lock the locker output to current state...

Sent via....

Well that's a bummer. I decided to go with an ARB anyway being that I've had a lot of problems with the e-locker in the past. I'm just using the aux switches to work everything and know you could just do the same with the e-locker but it would have been nice to use the factory switches. Hell, back in the day, Mel was able to get the factory switches to operate my ARB's :crazyeyes:
 

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