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Thread: M220 Chromemoly axles

  1. #91
    Administrator wayoflife's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by silverbullet88 View Post
    Suppose Ill be a guinea pig! Im not worried about the ring and pinion. Like wayalife said I as well have many friends in my 4wd club with Jk housings running 37s and even a one with rcvs. Iv yet to see a shaft or r&p break even with 5.13s.

    I dont considering myself a hardcore wheeler. I enjoy the Rubicon, deer valley, slick rock. Trails like that, it helps I live so close to them. Not a go fast type of guy just casual crawling, in fact I almost always camp at least one night on the trail. Love taking my time and enjoying the view!
    Oh, I'm sure you'll be fine with what you have and really, it's speed that kills more than anything. So that it isn't missed, I think it's great that Dana offers these aftermarket axles, they just leave me scratching my head with why they did or didn't do some of the things they chose to do.

    Me, speed is a big part of what I love and because of it, housing strength is important to me.

  2. #92
    Nothing but a Thing
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    Quote Originally Posted by wayoflife View Post
    LOL - it certainly wouldn't hurt. Of course, it could be they do but can't get corporate to see a bit more of the light.
    Know how that goes lol

    Sent via....

  3. #93
    Quote Originally Posted by wayoflife View Post
    That's what I don't get either, 1410 shafts with 2.75" tubes that have a wall thickness only slightly thicker than 1/4". Tons of people I know have been running JK's with 37's, on a 44 and for years. While it can and does happen, I haven't seen too much in the way of shaft failures so long as they're chromoly and have full circle clips or are RCV's. Likewise, I can't remember the last time I've seen a front ring and pinion fail that was a 5.13 or lower ratio. IF anything, what we've clearly seen are bent end forgings and broken housings - EVEN on those that have been sleeved or trussed.
    So, I picked a web based tube calculator, and did a fast comparison.
    The .375 wall 2.75 diameter tube is about 30% stronger than .250 wall 2.75 diameter tube.

    I admit this is not a full blown engineering study, just a simple tube strength.

    Not much improvement, for the $$$ in my opinion.

    Using the same calculator, staying at .250 wall and increasing tube size to 3.25 gives about a 50% increase in strength, and 3.25 with a .375 wall gives nearly double the strength of the original.



    As for 1410 u joints, I have mixed feelings. While I like a stronger joint, is it going to cause broken ring and pinion instead of a broken u joint or axle?

    It's a lot easier to get home with a broken axle or u joint, just pull it and drive on.

    How about the end forgings?
    They are thicker, but also appear taller.

    Does the added height give more bending leverage, so is there a net strength increase, or does it end up being the same in the end?
    His: 2015 JKUR

    Hers: 2018 JLUR

  4. #94
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jdofmemi View Post
    So, I picked a web based tube calculator, and did a fast comparison.
    The .375 wall 2.75 diameter tube is about 30% stronger than .250 wall 2.75 diameter tube.

    I admit this is not a full blown engineering study, just a simple tube strength.

    Not much improvement, for the $$$ in my opinion.

    Using the same calculator, staying at .250 wall and increasing tube size to 3.25 gives about a 50% increase in strength, and 3.25 with a .375 wall gives nearly double the strength of the original.



    As for 1410 u joints, I have mixed feelings. While I like a stronger joint, is it going to cause broken ring and pinion instead of a broken u joint or axle?

    It's a lot easier to get home with a broken axle or u joint, just pull it and drive on.

    How about the end forgings?
    They are thicker, but also appear taller.

    Does the added height give more bending leverage, so is there a net strength increase, or does it end up being the same in the end?
    30% increase in strength and no FAD I think is substantial. If the new 44s are that weak I think wed be seeing more breaks with all the people running 37s.

    Also, I can from a dana 30 to this UD 44 so for me its a huge upgrade. No way in hell Id buy this axle if I already had the JL 44. You are right there..def not worth the money if going from JL 44 to UD 44.

    As far as the end forgings go they are indeed much thicker and are the same height. You swap over your exsisting knuckles, unit bearing, brakes.

  5. #95
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    Quote Originally Posted by wayoflife View Post
    Oh, I'm sure you'll be fine with what you have and really, it's speed that kills more than anything. So that it isn't missed, I think it's great that Dana offers these aftermarket axles, they just leave me scratching my head with why they did or didn't do some of the things they chose to do.

    Me, speed is a big part of what I love and because of it, housing strength is important to me.
    I do find it odd they stayed at 2.75 vs 3 then again look at their JK UD44 same 2.5 OD and only .3125 wall, which they state that axle is good for up to a 37 tire.

    Yeah that prorock is awesome. Im sure youll be testing it the right way shortly!

  6. #96
    Hooked
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jesse_01 View Post
    How many km before your drag link crapped out? Our's has play in it. Eventually switching out to aftermarket steering components.

    Also we are switching out to 1 piece front axles because our axle discount shit the bed.

    Sent from my iPhone using JL Wrangler Jeep Forum mobile app
    It was around 4200 miles when it started to get bad enough to replace.

  7. #97
    Quote Originally Posted by silverbullet88 View Post
    30% increase in strength and no FAD I think is substantial. If the new 44s are that weak I think wed be seeing more breaks with all the people running 37s.

    Also, I can from a dana 30 to this UD 44 so for me its a huge upgrade. No way in hell Id buy this axle if I already had the JL 44. You are right there..def not worth the money if going from JL 44 to UD 44.

    As far as the end forgings go they are indeed much thicker and are the same height. You swap over your exsisting knuckles, unit bearing, brakes.
    About the end forgings, I was talking about the difference between the JK and the JL
    His: 2015 JKUR

    Hers: 2018 JLUR

  8. #98
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jdofmemi View Post
    About the end forgings, I was talking about the difference between the JK and the JL
    Ohh gotcha

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