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Thread: Life of Pie

  1. #21
    1. I didnít have the rubber piece behind the nut under the kick panel..my nut was plastic so the rubber isnít needed.
    2. He really made the pin removal look simple..there is a plastic locking device you need to press up on it..the pick he used probably just went right under it.. if you use a small screwdriver just be aware..also inserting the replacement wire pay attention the rear plastic retainer has a tiny slot for the lock on the pin ..it only goes in 1 way.
    3. The new plug plastic protector on the front pops of easy if you push up from the sides thru the slot not straight on


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  2. #22
    I ran the trailer wire the same time as the aux. I have not connected it to power yet but it is where it needs to be and as you can see is in the back seat area already. Called away for a honey do so it will just stay there for now. Iím running it in the wire conduit along the passenger side to the rear light. I think Matt or someone has a video.


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  3. #23
    Oh the grommet..it’s got a gap between the passenger and firewall I used my finger and some grease to open it up from the passenger side as I got to the outer layer I just poked it so I could find it on the firewall then I ran a piece of coat hanger back towards the passenger just pierced it the went back in with my finger and grabbed it. You will need 2 people just a hand so as not to poke a bundle. I used dielectric grease to ease the wire pull through.
    So it took me about 5 hrs to complete it. Removing the center console was nerve racking, the depin and repin and building the new plug was check double check. Finally I’m thinking of not going back with the plastic rivets they are stupid. I’m gonna try the push pin style, I only had to pull 3 to get to the wiring and the push style at the bottom 1 broke off. I still need the program but the only fail light was for ESS disabled which would be great except no power to switches until enabled.


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    Last edited by Shadowfire; 11-24-2018 at 08:20 AM.

  4. #24
    IMG_0260.JPG
    Used push pins and they hold pretty good I think those look fine if I have any trouble Iíll just use the rivets


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  5. #25

  6. #26
    Oh Christmas came early my Sunrider showed up today! IMG_0264.JPGIMG_0265.JPG


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  7. #27
    Got my Swag on today tooIMG_0266.JPGIMG_0267.JPG


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  8. #28
    I forgot to mention on the Aux switches install a few things 1. Run the power and grounds to their locations but donít connect them until done. Reason being you run the risk of blowing the inline fuse. The instructions say to disconnect the batteries and fuses as to render the vehicle powerless but if you make your connections your wires will be hot. 2. It turned out the ESS fault was not due to not being programmed for aux it was a loose connection I found by going back over my work. Seems the Orange jumper in the new plug wasnít making a good connection. Since that was the only problem I encountered if you wanted to disable your ESS that will do it. Be aware that with ESS disabled remote start will be also. Finally unlike the factory installed aux switches the kit only has 4 wires that tuck behind the kick panel and each is labeled Aux1 thru 4. I believe the factory install set has 6 wires and no labels. I believe for the $200 I spent and the few hrs of work done it was worth it. I believe as a factory option it would have been better and cost more as a factory option however you get the upgraded alternator and the tow package. Which for me is in work for me. Overall I know more about and where the fuses and connections are if future problems arise and I know now how to do it all again if necessary.


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  9. #29
    Sorry batteries and grounds removing the fuses is my suggestion to be safe


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