LOL!! Oh yeah, I know. I'm speaking more from measurements taken while helping Dynatrac develop their lift and not on how things "look". The Mopar lift really does yield closer to 3".
Lift confusion
- Thread starter Jetboy
- Start date
LOL!! Oh yeah, I know. I'm speaking more from measurements taken while helping Dynatrac develop their lift and not on how things "look". The Mopar lift really does yield closer to 3".
Jetboy
New member
Eddie I agree that looks almost 1” taller. Than other 2” lifts.
At what point do you need driveshafts? I have read some putting at least front drives with that much (net) lift.
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Anything more than a true 2" of lift will cause the front drive shaft CV boot to be in a constant state of pinch. This will cause the boot to fail prematurely and once compromised, all the grease inside will come out and that will lead to the bearings frying. Same is true on a 2-door rear shaft being that it's so short.
StingRubi19
New member
This is another reason why I'm going to go with dynatrac. I dont want to have to worry about replacing my front driveshaft at least for a while...
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Honestly, I would say no, there is no need for them.
BeeeCeee
New member
Jetboy
New member
Totally makes sense.
So I would assume that the mopar lift does not exceed this value? Also can you help us understand the control arms?
What adjustability (if that’s a word) do they give you over stock and how does this help? And at what point is it a good idea?
Sorry I’m just new to this Jeep lift thing. But understand there is a right way and a wrong way getting there.
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You can assume that but from what I've seen in person, it DOES exceed this value and I'm gonna bet that we'll start seeing people in need of new drive shafts sooner than later. We saw this exact problem back in the JK days and I can almost guarantee that we'll be seeing it again. Just give it some time.
The Mopar front lower control arms are NOT adjustable. To the best of my knowledge, they aren't even longer than stock.
The taller you go, the more your caster will be off and at about 2.5" or taller of true lift, "some" people may find that their ride is somewhat flighty at highway speeds. IF you are one of these people, installing a set of adjustable front lower arms will allow you to add in a bit more positive caster and that will help mitigate the flightiness. In the rear, IF you have a 2-door, your rear drive shaft will be way too short for a tall lift and the rzeppa joints WILL fail prematurely. Installing a u-joint style double cardan shaft will be what you want and in order to install one, you NEED to install adjust rear upper arms so that you can set your pinion.
Hope that helps.
LauraRose
New member
CRICKETS..........
Eddie, I know that you are trying to help us out, but I think a lot of us don't understand what caster is, what pinion is :doh::doh: ...and whether the adjustable control arms are used to "spin fwd or spin backward" the top or bottom of the driveshaft to adjust this caster & pinion stuff. I know you're busy, but it would be a HUGE help if you ever have time to do a quick tutorial on YouTube (or even post a detailed drawing here) to actually show us what you are talking about.
A lot of the people you interact with understand this stuff like the back of their hands, but many of us do not. I believe that I am speaking not just for myself, but for many others who want to understand all of this suspension geometry and how the different parts affect it (especially upper & lower, front & rear control arms) not just get advice as to whether we need it. Thank you!!
JTCO
Meme King
If you haven't already, see this thread. It should help:
https://jlwrangler.com/showthread.php?1118-WRITE-UP-Basic-DIY-Jeep-JL-Wrangler-FRONT-END-ALIGNMENT
LauraRose
New member
You ever get a shopping cart with a bum wheel that just wants to spin all over the place? That is essentially what you would see with zero caster. Take a look at the front wheel of a bicycle and if you'll notice, the front forks that hold it is angled to the back. This is what you would see with positive caster and it helps to keep your wheel wanting to go straight even after making a turn. The same is true on your Jeep, your front axle needs to have the back of it dipping down a tad to help keep your Jeep tracking straight especially at highway speeds. If you look at the end forgings on your front axle or what some refer to as the "C's", the top part of them is leaning a bit to the center of your Jeep and that is positive caster.
Below is a link to a write-up I did on how to set your caster using adjustable control arms.
https://jlwrangler.com/showthread.p...NT-END-ALIGNMENT&p=12270&viewfull=1#post12270
Pinion is the part of your axle that is connected to the drive shaft. In the rear, the angle that your pinion flange sits at will be parallel to the output shaft on your transfer case being that it uses rzeppa joints. Basically, a type of CV joint. Here's what it would look like from the factory.
Aftermarket shafts replace the CV's with u-joints and a double cardan at the transfer case end and in order to keep it from vibrating, you need to change the angle your pinion sits at to being parallel with your drive shaft. Here's what it should look like after setting your pinion angle.
Now technically, with an aftermarket shaft up front, your pinion should look something like that as well but that would give you negative caster and your Jeep would drive horribly. Needless to say, up front, caster NEEDS to take precedence over pinion angle.
Does this help?
WiscoHR
Member
That link will explain a lot of it. The easy way to think, if you have all 8 adjustable control arms. Lower position axles, upper adjust angles.
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Jetboy
New member
13_gecko_rubi
New member
The one nice thing about JL is if you have a slightly steeper front driveline angle although it will eventually take out the CV it will take a lot longer as the front driveshaft isn't spinning in 2WD like the JK was.
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Damn, that's right! I keep forgetting about the FAD. Thanks for reminding me :thumb:
13_gecko_rubi
New member
doubletapdaddy
Caught the Bug
I'd completely forgotten about FAD.