HOW TO: Make a license plate bracket when running without factory plastic rear bumper

doubletapdaddy

Caught the Bug
HOW TO: DIY license plate bracket when running without factory plastic rear bumper

I have neither the time nor skill to shoot and edit video. However, I did take some pictures while repurposing parts from the plastic rear JLUR bumper to mount my license plate while running bumperless.

As I reread my write up below, it strikes me that it might seem somewhat complicated just to build a license plate bracket. I can assure you that if you have the appropriate tools it is a very simple project. To cut the metal bracket I used a handheld jigsaw, but you could probably use a hacksaw or a rotary tool just as well. In all I would say that the completion of this project took me about 90 minutes, but that included figuring out what the heck I was going to do.

All righty then… let's do this!
 

Last edited:

doubletapdaddy

Caught the Bug
Removing the plastic rear bumper is slightly more complicated than removing the metal bumper as seen here:

VIDEO : JL JOURNAL - How to Run the JL Wrangler Rear End Bumperless

There's several more brackets and several more bolts. All in all though, it's still very easy. Although I took a ton of pictures during the bumper removal, I didn't think it really warranted another write-up. If you you have tools and can spin a wrench, that bumper can be off in 15 minutes or less.

I had planned to build a license plate bracket as seen here:

WRITE-UP : DIY License Plate Rear Cross Member Relocation Mount

However, the nut that is used in the video and the write up to secure the repurposed side bracket...

20180412113321-6aba63a2-me.jpg

...is not present on the plastic bumpers. There is only a hexagon hole where the nut would have been pressed into the bottom of the frame rail to secure the rear steel bumper (circled in green).

20180904_011424-1024x769.jpg

In next two pictures, you'll see the small 10mm bolts that secure the bottom of the plastic bumper. Note the metal ears (green arrows), as they will be intrical in fabricating the license plate bracket.

20180904_010947-1024x768.jpg

20180904_010932-1024x768.jpg

Once the plastic bumper is off, you'll see a support bracket for the middle top section of the bumper. It is above the receiver. You can see the four nuts that secure the hitch receiver to the frame rail. The two inner nuts are fastened to the frame rail, while the two outer nuts are fastened to the support bracket.

20180826_181158-1024x768.jpg

Here is the bracket after removal.

20180826_181850-1024x768.jpg

This is what the frame rail looks like without the bracket. Note that the two outer hitch receiver nuts are missing as they are still connected to the bracket.

20180826_181951-1024x768.jpg

I decided to use the stamped metal support bracket to fab my plate holder. I also wanted to use the original nuts used to mount the hitch receiver. As you will see below, one nut will stay on the bracket, while the other nut will be easily pulled off (it is spot welded on) and reused. In this picture I circled the four small tabs in red that I cut off with a jigsaw. Also note the two ears on either side that I had mentioned previously. Green lines indicate where I cut them off.

20180903_154946-1024x768.jpg

This picture shows the four small tabs and ears removed. [Forgive the rigged 4 by 4 workbench. I just recently ordered a proper steel workbench, however it won't be delivered till next week.] The leftmost nut will now be removed.

20180901_114109-1024x768.jpg

The nut was spot welded on and easily pulled off. I made a simple puller using a deep well socket paired with the original receiver hitch mounting bolt as shown.

20180901_120048-1024x768.jpg

The deep well socket was placed over the nut, and the bolt was threaded into the nut. With surprising little effort, I was able to tighten the bolt and pop the nut right off of the bracket.

20180901_130025-1024x768.jpg

20180901_130049-1024x768.jpg

20180901_120656-1024x768.jpg

20180901_130121-1024x768.jpg

The next picture shows the bracket sans nut, and a red line indicating where I cut the bracket so that it would clear the driver side frame horn.

20180903_155246-1024x768.jpg
 

Last edited:

doubletapdaddy

Caught the Bug
Remember those ears I mentioned a couple of times earlier... Those will be used to mount the plate to the bracket. Here's one freshly drilled and ready to mount to the bracket that it was removed from.

20180902_102236-768x1024.jpg

Here are a couple of pictures showing both ears mounted to the bracket. To find the appropriate width, I fasten both ears to the bottom of the license plate and then butted them up against the bottom of the bracket. I measured twice, marked once and then drilled holes in the ears and the bracket.

20180902_104103-1024x768.jpg

20180902_104107-1024x768.jpg

The following picture shows the space where the bracket will be mounted. On the right you can see the driver's side receiver hitch mounting point that will be reused, and on the left you can see a pre-existing hole next to the frame horn that goes completely through the frame rail.

20180902_104215-1024x768.jpg

Here is a 4.5 inch bolt, a couple of washers and a Nylock nut that will be inserted through the hole in the frame rail shown in the picture above. Of course I used a grade 8 bolt, to reduce the potential death wobble… just kidding. I couldn't resist a grade 8 bolt joke . Honestly, the bolt is what I had in my garage.

20180902_104227-1024x768.jpg

Here is a picture of the bolt inserted through the pre-existing hole of the frame rail.

20180902_104256-1024x768.jpg

The following pictures show the newly fabricated license plate bracket fastened on the right with the still attached hitch receiver nut, and with the carriage bolt / washers / Nylock nut on the left. I did use sn additional washer between the frame rail and the left side of the bracket to shim it away from the frame rail slightly for evenness.

20180902_104702-1024x768.jpg

20180902_104711-1024x768.jpg

20180902_104724-1024x768.jpg




The license plate was secured to the bracket using the factory 10mm bolts that held the bottom of the plastic bumper in place.

20180902_175933-1024x767.jpg

20180902_180242-1024x768.jpg

20180902_110741-1024x768.jpg

20180902_110735-1024x768.jpg

Although it appears close, there is plenty of room between the plate and the stock tire. Fortunately there's sufficient lateral movement from the elongated holes of the license plate for adjustment.

20180902_110752-1024x768.jpg
 

Last edited:

doubletapdaddy

Caught the Bug
Taking a cue from the DIY License Plate Rear Cross Member Relocation Mount (referenced above), I purchased the recommended LED lights from Amazon.

iRupse 2pcs License Plate Screw Bolt

The factory wiring harness was deceptively simple to remove from the plastic rear bumper. Fortunately the bumper cap does not need to be removed to relieve the bumper of the harness. The following picture indicates the locations providing access to the Christmas tree fasteners securing the harness to the inside of the bumper. Using a screwdriver or a punch, the Christmas trees can be knocked from their fastening points and into the bumper, allowing the wiring to be easily pulled out of the bumper without taking anything apart.

20180904_011640.jpg

To keep the wiring from the exhaust heat, I routed it through the frame.

20180902_160127-1024x768.jpg

20180904_030303.jpg


To diminish chafing and the potential for shorting, the wire routed through the frame was covered with plastic conduit.

20180902_164643-1024x768.jpg

The wires were soldered as in the video and voila, I'm now running legal.

20180902_164617-1024x768.jpg

I'm very happy with the results. It's rock solid and adjustable should I ever need to move it for increased tire clearance, or for frame mounted recovery points such as those offered by Evo (only available for the JK... at least for now).
 

Last edited:

WiscoHR

Member
Taking a cue from the DIY License Plate Rear Cross Member Relocation Mount (referenced above), I purchased the recommended LED lights from Amazon.

iRupse 2pcs License Plate Screw Bolt

The factory wiring harness was deceptively simple to remove from the plastic rear bumper. Fortunately the bumper cap does not need to be removed to relieve the bumper of the harness. The following picture indicates the locations providing access to the Christmas tree fasteners securing the harness to the inside of the bumper. Using a screwdriver or a punch, the Christmas trees can be knocked from their fastening points and into the bumper, allowing the wiring to be easily pulled out of the bumper without taking anything apart.

View attachment 5123

To keep the wiring from the exhaust heat, I routed it through the frame.

View attachment 5124

View attachment 5125


To diminish chafing and the potential for shorting, the wire routed through the frame was covered with plastic conduit.

View attachment 5126

The wires were soldered as in the video and voila, I'm now running legal.

View attachment 5127

I'm very happy with the results. It's rock solid and adjustable should I ever need to move it for increased tire clearance, or for frame mounted recovery points such as those offered by Evo (only available for the JK... at least for now).

Great job! And awesome write up. I was surprised with all the extra crap holding on the plastic bumper as well. It seems like it has more support than the steel one.


Sent from my iPhone using JL Wrangler Jeep Forum mobile app
 

BillArnett

New member
...The factory wiring harness was deceptively simple to remove from the plastic rear bumper. Fortunately the bumper cap does not need to be removed to relieve the bumper of the harness. The following picture indicates the locations providing access to the Christmas tree fasteners securing the harness to the inside of the bumper. Using a screwdriver or a punch, the Christmas trees can be knocked from their fastening points and into the bumper, allowing the wiring to be easily pulled out of the bumper without taking anything apart...

Nice job and nice write-up. Just a small note, though: if you have the parking sensors you DO have to take the bumper apart to get the harness out. (OTOH, if you have the sensors you probably don't want to run bumper less)
 

Top