Got the Mopar Cargo Rack (not for overlanding)

I owned 2 ford explorers before my JK & the one thing I didn’t consider until it was too late was that my JK had a soft top. So there I am freezing at the dealership in February and I’m stripping the roof my roof rack off of the explorer and realize that I can’t mount it to my JK.

When I saw the pre-release photos of the JL with a Mopar roof rack I was ecstatic. It was one of the main reasons I jumped into the JL and got a hard top as well. I still have my specialized canoe rack in the shed and I’m finally going to get to mount it.

If you’re going to put a roof rack on the Mopar version is the way to go. It’s the Thule Aeroblade setup with a Jeep logo & It comes FULLY assembled. It’s even set to the correct width already for the JL roof. It took 30 minutes to install versus getting 12 boxes of separate crap to put together.

The list price is $295 & on top of that there’s a 15% off Mopar accessories coupon in the Jeep Owners website. Here’s some photos of just the bars setup. They have T slots & there is no perceptible noise difference. It’s pretty sweet. I’ll follow up with my canoe setup when I finish everything.

(Not sure why the photos rotated. They look fine on my iphone. Any help there?)

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wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
Nice rack... did I just say that out loud? :eek: :crazyeyes:

Fixed your photos for you too :yup:
 

arcticaaron

New member
Looks like a nice setup. I need to order these for hauling skis around. I like the low profile design of the aero bars.
 

doubletapdaddy

Caught the Bug
That does look nice. Really appreciate the low profile.

The product disclaimer notes:
"Can accommodate bike and ski carriers as well as the roof basket or roof boxes, however it is not recommended for water sports, canoe or paddle board carriers."

Do you think that this may due to the water channel/gutter being too weak or unable to provide a secure attachment point when cargo may" lift" while driving?

What are your thoughts on this? I only have experience with the Rhino-Rack BackBone system on my JKUR, and have no experience with gutter feet.
 

That does look nice. Really appreciate the low profile.

The product disclaimer notes:
"Can accommodate bike and ski carriers as well as the roof basket or roof boxes, however it is not recommended for water sports, canoe or paddle board carriers."

Do you think that this may due to the water channel/gutter being too weak or unable to provide a secure attachment point when cargo may" lift" while driving?

What are your thoughts on this? I only have experience with the Rhino-Rack BackBone system on my JKUR, and have no experience with gutter feet.

My canoe is 17.5’ and aluminum. It’s under the 88lbs recommended weight, but it generates a lot of wind shear. I used to run bow & stern tethers to the bumper as well as 2 around it & the rack as well. I’m pretty sure if I don’t overtighten the bumper tethers it’ll be ok.
 

Westy

New member
How about three cross bars?

That does look nice. Really appreciate the low profile.

The product disclaimer notes:
"Can accommodate bike and ski carriers as well as the roof basket or roof boxes, however it is not recommended for water sports, canoe or paddle board carriers."

Do you think that this may due to the water channel/gutter being too weak or unable to provide a secure attachment point when cargo may" lift" while driving?

What are your thoughts on this? I only have experience with the Rhino-Rack BackBone system on my JKUR, and have no experience with gutter feet.


Do you suppose that two sets of these carriers, or maybe just adding another single cross bar would be enough to help with this problem. I have a 30# carbon fiber canoe
that is 17 feet long. My desire is to get a cross bar farther forward on the T-top part of the roof where they say not to put it. I am thinking that an extra bar farther back
where it is supposed to be could take the strain off the front most bar. It would also allow the balance point of the canoe to be moved farther forward. This problem was
easily solved with accessories for the JK model.
 

Eazy

Member
I put these on my jeep with a small basket. It is allot stronger than expected. I was standing on the tire trying to get a bag off the basket I lost my footing started to fall and grabbed the blade to keep me from falling. I thought for sure I was going to brake the gutter since I'm over 300lbs and not a sign of any damage. I wouldn't try loading it with to much but I think they can do well over the recommended no problem

Sent from my [device_name] using JL Wrangler Jeep Forum mobile app
 

Eazy

Member
I put these on my jeep with a small basket. It is allot stronger than expected. I was standing on the tire trying to get a bag off the basket I lost my footing started to fall and grabbed the blade to keep me from falling. I thought for sure I was going to brake the gutter since I'm over 300lbs and not a sign of any damage. I wouldn't try loading it with to much but I think they can do well over the recommended no problem

Sent from my [device_name] using JL Wrangler Jeep Forum mobile app
The max weight on the gutters is 150lbs according to the webs. The rack is about 30 my rack and yakima basket was light enough for me to remove assembled by my self. 20180620_133616.jpg20180620_141239.jpg

Sent from my [device_name] using JL Wrangler Jeep Forum mobile app
 

So I ran into some issues installing my canoe system & I was hanging onto the bars while standing on my tires. I’m about 230. I was shaking the whole Jeep & nothing happened. I think it’ll be fine.
 

STR1KER

New member
I've been eyeing some bar systems for my JLU Sport S 4dr. I have 3 Perception yaks 2-9ft, 1-12ft.
I've been trying to figure what's going to be the best set up to haul them.

I'm used to using the foam pads and securing them w/ pull straps thru the center, and then pull straps front / back.
Since the hard top is fiberglass, I'm concerned about the weight cracking the crap outta it.

W/ the cross bar system, I'm thinking perhaps I can rock the 2- 9ft yaks on the top, (placing the weight on the inner cross bars under the hard top), and throw the 12ft inside. I have yet to take the yaks out this year just because I've got reservations on damaging the hard top.

I actually have been runnin' naked w/o the top and doors since mid-May, but just buttoned it up last weekend for a trip to NH/VT.

The ORIGINAL thought process was to drop the seats, and secure the 2-9ft diagonally behind the front seats to the back.
Never got to try that because the Alien Sunshade (full) came in, and well, I put that on before we got the chance to take the boats out.

I'm curious to how others have tackled this issue, and if anyone's tried the diagonal approach?
 

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