doubletapdaddy
Caught the Bug
So how do you raise the wheel up enough (roughly 10”) with a jack that only has 9” of throw???
I have a Craftsman 12 ton that will lift roughly 18 in. It's not the one in the back of my JK though.
So how do you raise the wheel up enough (roughly 10”) with a jack that only has 9” of throw???
So how do you raise the wheel up enough (roughly 10”) with a jack that only has 9” of throw???
I suppose I could just go try it with a bottle jack. But I just thought someone who has more experience with bottle jacks could explain it. This group is long on practical knowledge and short on theory
Of course, there are other uses for a very long throw jack like a Hi-Lift. Sometimes it’s awkward or impossible to get the jack under the axle and jacking on the bumper works better. In theory. I must admit I’ve never actually seen such a case myself.
I guess I’m not so smart after all I certainly get it about using blocks under the jack. All the times I’ve changed a tire on my Jeep has been with a Hi-Lift but I’ve never seen it done with a bottle jack. Where on the axle did you place the jack? Maybe if you put it close to the differential there will be sufficient lever action to increase the jack’s throw range? Or maybe when the tire is flat it’s still keeping the rim an inch or two above the ground? A combination of those might just be enough? Or maybe you have a much bigger jack than the ones I found on amazon?
I suppose I could just go try it with a bottle jack. But I just thought someone who has more experience with bottle jacks could explain it. This group is long on practical knowledge and short on theory
Of course, there are other uses for a very long throw jack like a Hi-Lift. Sometimes it’s awkward or impossible to get the jack under the axle and jacking on the bumper works better. In theory. I must admit I’ve never actually seen such a case myself.
You need to place your Jack under the base of the differential OR the base of your control arm mounts. Both will be the lowest points on your Jeep and in spite of what you may think, they can some times be too low. This is where your factory scissor jack can be of help to get you started. A Hi-Lift lifting from the bumper is the worst way you can change a tire as your suspension would need to completely unload before your tire ever gets off the ground. This will leave your Jeep high in the sky and balanced dangerously on the Hi-Lift. While a Hi-Lift is a tool with other uses, you should NEVER use a Hi-Lift to change a tire.
I’ve never understood the hi lift jack. It has its point, but 90% of the time there is a safer more effective way of doing something. Not to mention it big, awkward and heavy. But I will say my favorite part about the hi lift is that every time I see one bolted somewhere on a Jeep, that Jeep has plastic bumpers and side steps. I’d love to see those people actually try to use one!
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It seems like high-lifts are more like costume jewelry for Jeeps.
It seems like high-lifts are more like costume jewelry for Jeeps.
... Maybe if you put it close to the differential there will be sufficient lever action to increase the jack’s throw range? Or maybe when the tire is flat it’s still keeping the rim an inch or two above the ground?...
Some things that you are neglecting in your maths is that the tire has thickness even when flat. Another thing is that the jack is lifting the axle, which is a lever, and magnifies the lifting effect of the jack on the tire.
You need to place your Jack under the base of the differential OR the base of your control arm mounts. Both will be the lowest points on your Jeep and in spite of what you may think, they can some times be too low. This is where your factory scissor jack can be of help to get you started.
A Hi-Lift lifting from the bumper is the worst way you can change a tire as your suspension would need to completely unload before your tire ever gets off the ground. This will leave your Jeep high in the sky and balanced dangerously on the Hi-Lift. While a Hi-Lift is a tool with other uses, you should NEVER use a Hi-Lift to change a tire.
It seems like high-lifts are more like costume jewelry for Jeeps.
I think that's what I was suggesting. Thanks. I guess that will have to suffice as the explanation for now.
I get that. But using the LCA mount will negate the leverage advantage mentioned above. I've always felt uneasy about using the differential pumpkin for fear of damaging it. But the diff is really pretty strong and if you have actually done that then I'll stop worrying.
I get this, too. It always makes me nervous to have 2 tons of metal sitting up in the air with such an unstable support especially while I'm messing with heavy parts of it (the tire). I've never actually had a problem but I've certainly been well aware that the potential is there.
OTOH, I also dislike crawling underneath that 2 tons of metal and jacking it up while my head is underneath. If something goes wrong at that point I have no way to escape. At least with a Hi-Lift all I need to do is take a step back.
Getting back to the original question: it sounds to me like most of the criticism I'm hearing of the Hi-Lift would also apply to the ARB Jack, right? The main advantage of the ARB Jack in my mind is that it's hydraulic so it should operate much more easily and smoothly. That might ameliorate some of the Hi-Lift's dangerousness. But all the metal is still going to be up high and unstable.
If I do get an ARB Jack, I'll be sure to keep it hidden :yup:
The differential is the strongest part of the axle housing. As an engineer you probably know that!
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Software engineer... they don't get out much.
Software engineer... they don't get out much.
Getting back to the original question: it sounds to me like most of the criticism I'm hearing of the Hi-Lift would also apply to the ARB Jack, right? The main advantage of the ARB Jack in my mind is that it's hydraulic so it should operate much more easily and smoothly. That might ameliorate some of the Hi-Lift's dangerousness. But all the metal is still going to be up high and unstable.