Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 123
Results 21 to 24 of 24

Thread: WRITE-UP : Jeep JL Wrangler 3.6L V6 Pentastar Engine Oil Change

  1. #21
    Hooked
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    Danville, Indiana
    Posts
    199
    Quote Originally Posted by wayoflife View Post
    The Mopar part# is MO-349. I think it's the same on the 17 too.



    I won't lie, I was a little concerned to see that. It looked as if the element were crushed - as in, it was the wrong filter and too long. I actually took a moment to make sure the bird cage wasn't damaged like we've seen on JK's.
    That's normal for the Mopar filter to be contorted like that. Go to Wal Mart and open a few of them. I opened three and they were all that way. If someone has one that is not contorted, then it likely came from an alternative supplier, or they are not consistent. I strongly suspect the Mopar is made by Purolator, as theirs are identical in every way. It really should not be a problem, although it does look abnormal.

    I run a Fram Ultra Guard. It filters better, longer, and the pleats are backed by a metal framework. It is rated to 20,000 miles and will come out as straight as new. It has a rating of 99% filtration of particles down to 20 microns, which is best in the industry. Even the Mobil 1 filter, which is constructed the same way as the Fram Ultra Guard, doesn't filter that well, at 99% filtration down to 30 microns. The Mobil 1 filter is a very good option, too, but runs about 15 bucks, versus the Fram's 12. Another great option, for probably around 6 bucks is a basic Fram. There are some other good fiters out there, too.

    If you don't want to sweat over it, just keep running the Mopars. They'll do fine and that 3.6 should last a very long time with them. The good news is that you can look the filter over after each oil change and really see how it holds up.

  2. #22
    Administrator wayoflife's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Location
    Carson City, NV
    Posts
    7,237
    Quote Originally Posted by Rhinebeck01 View Post
    That is the best oil change informational I have seen. The pics alone are worth their weight in gold especially to the novice!

    Might I add this:

    Oil Life Reset:

    1. Without pushing the brake pedal, push and release the
    ENGINE START/STOP button and place the ignition to
    the ON/RUN position (do not start the engine).

    2. Navigate to Oil Life submenu in vehicle Info in the
    instrument cluster display

    3. Push and hold the OK button until the gauge resets to 100%.

    -

    Secondary Method For Oil Change Reset Procedure:

    1. Without pushing the brake pedal, push and release the
    ENGINE START/STOP button and place the ignition to
    the ON/RUN position (do not start the engine).

    2. Fully press the accelerator pedal, slowly, three times
    within ten seconds.

    3. Without pushing the brake pedal, push and release the
    ENGINE START/STOP button once to return the ignition
    to the OFF/LOCK position.


    NOTE: If the indicator message illuminates when you
    start the vehicle, the oil change indicator system did not
    reset. If necessary, repeat this procedure.
    Ah, yes - thanks for the hokie-pokie reminder. I did my oil change BEFORE the dash indicator came on so a reset wasn't necessary. But yes, it would be required otherwise.

  3. #23
    Administrator wayoflife's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Location
    Carson City, NV
    Posts
    7,237
    Quote Originally Posted by Principal Skinr View Post
    That's normal for the Mopar filter to be contorted like that. Go to Wal Mart and open a few of them. I opened three and they were all that way. If someone has one that is not contorted, then it likely came from an alternative supplier, or they are not consistent. I strongly suspect the Mopar is made by Purolator, as theirs are identical in every way. It really should not be a problem, although it does look abnormal.

    I run a Fram Ultra Guard. It filters better, longer, and the pleats are backed by a metal framework. It is rated to 20,000 miles and will come out as straight as new. It has a rating of 99% filtration of particles down to 20 microns, which is best in the industry. Even the Mobil 1 filter, which is constructed the same way as the Fram Ultra Guard, doesn't filter that well, at 99% filtration down to 30 microns. The Mobil 1 filter is a very good option, too, but runs about 15 bucks, versus the Fram's 12. Another great option, for probably around 6 bucks is a basic Fram. There are some other good fiters out there, too.

    If you don't want to sweat over it, just keep running the Mopars. They'll do fine and that 3.6 should last a very long time with them. The good news is that you can look the filter over after each oil change and really see how it holds up.
    That would be news to me and really, the first time I have EVER seen the pleats contorted that badly coming out of an engine unless it were the wrong one. While they're not perfectly straight, you can see in the photo I posted of the Mopar filter that it doesn't look anything like what I pulled out.

  4. #24
    Fresh Catch Toy2Jeep's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2018
    Location
    Oregon
    Posts
    3

    Thank you

    Quote Originally Posted by wayoflife View Post
    As everyone knows, changing your oil is a necessary part of routine maintenance and as luck would have it, it's also something that's super easy to do especially if you have a Jeep JL Wrangler with a 3.6L V6 Pentastar motor. Of course, for those of you who've never changed your own oil before, this write-up will show you what all you'll need, what all is involved and really, just how little you'll actually have to do.
    Great write up! I am happy to see that this can easily be done and the filter is so accessible!

Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 123

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •