I just did something similar. But I followed the instructions in another thread and wired the white light to my fuse box. I used a fuse tap in slot 58 for heated seats. I don’t have heated seats, but if you do, you don’t lose that functionality.
I ran that fuse tap wire to both fenders. I severed the white and amber/brown wire, and I put a dead splice in the wire end going back to the Jeep. I connected the short end, going to the bulb, to my powered wire from the fuse tap in slot 58. I used heat shrink soldered connections. When you heat them the solder melts, and the wrap shrinks. It also has a heat activated glue. So I have a water tight, solder connection, using only a $12 harbor freight heat gun.
I used the vivid line switchbacks, with white projectors. I have not put the resistors in yet, and vividline are not canbus, so I get fast flash in the dash, but normal flash out side. My white lights do not flash, and require no resistors. I did tap one of the white amber wires, back to the Jeep, for the relay for my halos. It signals the halos to turn on, when the ignition is on. Fuse 58 is also always on when the ignition is on. So I have corner white DRLs, and halo DRLs. I could probably add a switch to the power wire off of 58, to be able to turn things off if needed. My halo app gives me that functionality as well if I need it.
This wiring takes only about 30 minutes, and you’ll need under $10 in parts to make it happen.